Giving up on Kamakura, I found a poetic life under Mount Fuji in Zushi

On the weekend, the train to Kamakura was packed with tourists, so when the crowd got off in a swarm, I simply decided not to go and took the train one more stop—just 6 minutes—to Zushi.

This gave me plenty of extra time, perfect for spending half a day wandering along Zushi Beach, and it was such a delightful surprise!

The coastal scenery of Zushi is just as beautiful as Kamakura’s, but with fewer tourists. The town is full of everyday life, peaceful and serene. If it weren’t for the striking Mount Fuji in the background, I would have felt like I was in a European seaside town.

On a sunny day in Zushi, I was reminded of many seaside towns: warm, lazy, and filled with the moist air of the ocean. Living by the sea naturally carries a romantic vibe, especially with Mount Fuji nearby. Even as a mere passerby, I was moved by the poetic life along the coast.

🚶One-day walking route:
Starting from the JR station, it’s a 10-minute walk to Zushi Beach. The weather was great, and locals were kayaking or paddleboarding on the sea, or playing beach volleyball. Walking down one street, Mount Fuji appeared on the other side of the sea.

Heading south, I passed a residential area with many small seaside villas. On a balcony, an elderly couple was sipping tea in rocking chairs. Always gazing at the coastline and Mount Fuji at the end of the street, I felt tempted to buy a house here...

Reaching Morito Beach, this stretch of beach was quieter. Along the coastal street, there were many cafes perfect for daydreaming while watching the sea and Mount Fuji. The cafe owners spoke English far better than most Japanese, and the shops were full of Westerners. Could Zushi already be a hidden sanctuary for foreigners?

At the end of the coast is Morito Shrine, a local favorite with many seagulls, perfect for a quick visit.

Further ahead is Manazuru Beach, famous for the classic view of the torii gate in the sea, the lighthouse, and Mount Fuji all in one frame. There are plenty of water activities here, plus a small fishing port, all making for excellent scenery.

There were only a few visitors on the beach, all holding coffee, sitting on the sand watching the sea and mountains. The winter sun was warm and cozy—simply perfect!

The whole walk took about an hour, with stops for coffee, cake, and sea views, just enough to spend half a day. When the sun is out, it doesn’t feel cold even in winter.

🚌 When you’re too tired to walk back, you can catch the bus Zushi 12 from any beach to return to Zushi Station.
🚄 Direct JR trains to Zushi or Keikyu Zushi-Hayama Station are available from Shinagawa and Yokohama, about 1 hour.