Live Your Best Lives
6/2 Chengdu - New Capital City Kangding Gonggazong Manor
6/3 New Capital City - Shangri-La Town Daocheng Aden Risong Kampot Hotel
6/5 Shangri-La Town - Deqin Jixiashan Meili SUNYATA Resort Hotel
6/7 Dechen - Mangkang Mangkang Songzan Rumei Mountain Residence
6/8 Mangkang - Basu Dora Shenshan Hot Spring Hotel
6/9 Basu - Bomi Zao Hotel
6/10 Bomi-Motuo Gladandong Hotel
6/11 Motuo-Lulang Gongcuo Town Nyingchi Evergrande Hotel
6/12 Lulang-Nyingchi Botai Nyingchi Hotel
6/13 Nyingchi-Lhasa Songzan Qujilinka Hotel
The 80s of the last century was the prosperous era of reportage, and Huang Zongying's "Log Cabin" was among them. Her relaxed writing and deep emotions deeply imprinted the mysterious and beautiful place of the persistent female forester and Nyingchi in my forgetful head, when did I want to go? Later, when the tourism industry developed, Nyingchi and Bomi, and even Motuo were often mentioned, but I never included it in my travel plans, one was afraid of the hardships of the road, the other was that it was difficult to find travel companions, and the third was that there were too many places to go.
Until 5.1 learned that a group of five cars was going to drive from Chengdu to Lhasa, the little monster that had been hidden for a long time jumped out in the depths of my mind, which I never needed to remember and would never forget. But considering that they had been planning for a long time, the route, food and accommodation had been arranged, and they were all familiar old friends, it was not appropriate for me to suddenly insert it, so I pushed this idea back. One day in mid-May, when I was chatting with my mother, sister, and son, I mentioned Tibet, and my sister said that she was afraid that her body would not be able to bear it and did not dare to go. The son said you two go with their convoy, what a rare opportunity! I really can't control the little monsters. Let my son ask the head of the group if he can add us, and he replied that we want a separate car, and it is best to find another one who can drive. I tentatively asked my relative's little sister, and she was enthusiastic. The problem of people is solved, and the problem of the car must be solved. SZ and YH are more reliable, both are less than 7,000 prices, and the daily rent is quite cheap, but it is expensive to return the car in another place, accounting for half of each. One is the Volkswagen Tiguan with 100,000 kilometers, and the other is the Volkswagen Tanyue four-wheel drive with 40,000 kilometers, and finally chose Tanyue. In this way, Nyingchi made a hasty trip without any plan.
I always have to make special preparations when going to the plateau, visit Taobao every day and buy 10 bottles of oxygen; I was afraid that the rented car would break down, so I bought a tow rope; Looking at the weather forecast, it snowed and rained every day, so I bought raincoat shoe covers and rain covers for my camera; Afraid that he would not be able to eat or would not be used to eating, he bought self-heating rice and canned fish, and brought the dried fruit chocolate at home. Oxygen can't be on the plane, and the tow rope is too heavy, so these two express deliveries to Chengdu, and the order was placed on the 28th, and it actually arrived on the 30th. The most important thing is that others say that they should take the anti-high anti-reverse drug rhodiola in advance, go to the hospital to prescribe medicine because of the epidemic to pass many checkpoints, scan the code, measure the temperature, fill in the form, disinfect, and finally see the doctor, saying that there is no rhodiola, the medical insurance drug has Nordicon, at most five boxes at a time, enough for half a month, I will go a week in advance and three weeks on the road! And I left after 12 days, and the doctor helped me think of an idea, saying that I would open four boxes first, so that I could open again after ten days, and I agreed. Ten days later, I went through many checkpoints and saw another doctor, saying that Nordicon wanted to adjust the price, and now I can't get the goods, only 70 pearl pills at my own expense, I hesitated for a long time, but I still spent nearly 300 to buy a box.
The convoy departed from Chengdu on June 2 and planned to arrive in Lhasa on the 13th. We arrived in Chengdu early. Considering the location and convenience of living, I found a three-bedroom and two-bathroom homestay near Wuhou Temple, and the three of them lived very spaciously, but the conditions were poor and the hygiene was poor, and there was not even bottled water and toilet paper, but fortunately, it was sent after the request. On the morning of the 1st, I went to the Heming Tea House in People's Park to have breakfast, and the waiter suggested buying a 65 yuan set, more than 20 kinds of each small amount, and it was warm to eat, not like the new one, the taste was average.
Then I went to Du Fu's thatched cottage for a long time, and it took a long time to scan the health code when I entered the door, and now there is an additional procedure everywhere. It's June 1st, and I don't go to school, so I have a lot of children, and all indoor spaces are not open, so there are more people. Eat Sichuan hot pot at noon (forgot the name of the store), this chain store is quite a big store, there are few customers, I asked for spicy and non-spicy mandarin duck pot. The driver who sent us said they wouldn't come to this kind of restaurant for hot pot. In the afternoon, I walked on Chunxi Road, and in the evening, someone invited the head of the regiment to a banquet, and we all followed the light and got to know the group members by the way: four old couples over sixty, a young couple under forty, Sister Wang who is nearly seventy years old, and a middle-aged man in his fifties. An old couple who were supposed to participate couldn't come due to illness, and we happened to replace them, or five cars. We are three quasi-old ladies in their fifties, who are taken care of in car No. 2. The regiment commander gave us oxygen cylinders, walkie-talkies, car number stickers and team uniforms. After dinner, we went to pick up the car, and by the way, we planned to go to the supermarket to buy some food and drink, but the group leader warned us that food and drink were prepared for us, and we didn't have to buy anything.After picking up the car, we still bought milk, yogurt and bread and fruit (the things we bought were not the same as those given by the group leader, because the three meals a day were too rich, and there were fruit yogurts and desserts in the room, including anti-anti-anti-anti-drug drugs, which were supported every day). Back in the community, the doorman asked us to park the car in the passage and took away the keys, saying that we would move the car if needed.
I set off at 8 o'clock on the 2nd, carried my luggage downstairs at half past seven, and really got a car behind the car. I asked the doorman to help move the car, and the doorman pointed to a box of keys behind him and said, we don't care, you can move it yourself. It turned out to be such an operation, which was really beyond imagination. Holding a box of more than a dozen keys, his head buzzed, and he didn't know which one was from that car. Look at it is a Toyota, just look for one with three circles, get one and try to open the door, and actually hit it, open the door and then ignite, I have never driven this kind of car, and I feel up and down, for fear of being hit by someone else's car. Carefully reverse the oil, the passage is very narrow, my car occupies the middle, pedestrians on both sides have to pass sideways, and finally safely reverse the car to another passage, and we can go. The sweat is coming down. I started late, and I caught up with the morning rush hour, and I had to wait three times for a red light to pass at an intersection, so I took advantage of this time to paste the car sign on the rear window. Finally got on the Beijing-Kunming Expressway, the other cars were already in front, I chased all the way, and soon there was a sound on the walkie-talkie, and then I saw a small convoy with a familiar logo, and we returned to the team smoothly. Except for the No. 4 car, which is a big cut, the other three are six-cylinder and eight-cylinder Land Cruisers, our little broken car is very shabby, but the car is not smart, and soon we have been affirmed by everyone, and we are no longer worried about us.
This road basically goes west along the southern route of National Highway 318, and drives south into Provincial Highway 217 to Daocheng Aden, and then returns to National Highway 318 from Provincial Highway 214.
I arrived at Luding Bridge at noon, hurriedly walked around the bridge to take pictures, and then ate at a restaurant next to it. In 2004, the family came to Luding Bridge when they arrived in western Sichuan, and now the bridge has been added with longitudinal slabs, which is safer than before. In fact, the scenery here is not very good, it is just a memorial site for revolutionary history. I still remember that the last time I came over Erlang Mountain, now the tunnel has been opened. Because he was in a hurry, the general coordinator decided to eat some simple, a bowl of noodles for each person, but he didn't expect to give a big bowl for more than ten yuan, and in the end everyone didn't finish eating. In the afternoon, the sky was even more cloudy, and the fog was heavy and very cold when I reached the 4,300-meter Zheduo Mountain, where I could overlook the first peak of Sichuan, Gongga Snow Mountain, which was not possible today, so I got out of the car and continued to hurry.
In the evening, when I arrived at the Curie Abbey, it started to rain. The regiment commander asked everyone if they wanted to visit, and someone responded that five cars were running along a narrow road that could only accommodate one car, and if the car on the opposite side had to retreat to a wider place to give way. There were no other tourists in the temple except us, braving the cold rain to enter the monks' residence, there was a stove in it, which was very warm, and everyone invited a ghee lamp and Hada to worship in the main hall, and read the introduction that there were hundreds of years of murals and thousands of years of scriptures here. Sister Wang in the group is very religious and worshipped seriously. The rain actually stopped coming out of the hall, and there was a little blue in the middle of the sky, and everyone said that it was Sister Wang's sincerity that moved God. Back on National Highway 318 and continue on, various large hotels or photography bases are being built on both sides of the road, basically two or three stories of Tibetan-style tube buildings with more than ten or twenty rooms.
Kangding Gonggazong Manor is not far from the center of Xinduqiao Town and is our first foothold. Leaving the national highway and walking uphill for a while, pure Tibetan-style two-story buildings are lined up on the hillside, going up and down, for those of us who have just come from Chengdu to the plateau of more than 3,000 meters, the car is parked in the parking lot below, and an important task of the waiter is to help guests carry their luggage. The manager Nima is handsome and serious, will be anxious because we use the wrong cup or sit in the wrong position, we must arrange everything according to the regulations, listen to him that the owner of the hotel is a Tibetan who has studied abroad, no wonder the hotel facilities are very modern, electric heating, bath bombs, toilets coexist with floor beds and kang tables, although the dishes are improved Sichuan cuisine, but according to the way of Western food, the table is calculated according to the number of people, do not order food but manage enough, you can add it arbitrarily. The hotel itself is like a landscape, a beautiful stove in the center of the restaurant burns hot water, and the chimney on the roof rises with smoke, adding a touch of vitality and warmth to the large field. The temperature here is very low, the house should be heated, and cotton clothes should be worn outside the house.
The next day, after breakfast, we headed for Daocheng Aden. I had a headache last night and didn't sleep well, and today I didn't get better, oxygen didn't seem to work, and I didn't feel anything even if I kept taking the medicine. At least half of the people in the group are uncomfortable, it's just a matter of degree. I was dizzy in the passenger seat, and the weather was gloomy. When I got off the car at the eighteenth turn of Tianlu, it was like stepping on cotton, and I was panicked, after all, it was more than 4,600 meters above sea level.Not long after getting back in the car, I started to feel nauseous and finally didn't hold back and vomited. At noon, in order to hurry for lunch, the regiment leader gave us two big bags of food, mainly snacks and coffee to refresh ourselves. We ate bread and meat sausages and some fruit snacks bought in Chengdu, I opened a pack of self-heating rice, and when the rice was cooked, the discomfort came up again, not to mention eating, it smelled disgusting. It turned out that he had just climbed over a mountain of more than 4,000 meters. In the afternoon, the local Mr. Wang went to Rabbit Mountain to greet us, and the sky was blue. Someone led the way, and the speed of the car was lifted, and it went straight to the airport without stopping after Haizi Mountain. A large stone with the inscription 4,411 meters stands in front of the airport in the shape of a flying saucer, marking the height of the world's highest airport. We also felt the strong sunshine of the plateau. A few days ago, there was just a heavy snowfall here, and the plane was grounded, and the airport was closed after the eleventh peak season every year due to the climate, until the spring of next year. The terminal building is not big. After coming out of the airport, I went directly to the Daocheng Aden Risong Kampot Hotel in Shangri-La Town to rest. In the afternoon, I felt much better, and the creatinine oral liquid given by Mr. Wang may have also worked, and it was normal when I had dinner. Mr. Wang said that the best anti-high reaction drug is plateau anhe creatinine oral solution, which is better than rhodiola.
After a night of rest, the hotel's buffet breakfast is very standardized, with both Chinese and Western flavors. Mr. Wang has already prepared a van to take us into the scenic spot, and also brought oxygen, plateau safety, water, self-heating rice, fruit and chocolate and other snacks, which is really thoughtful! The car circled on the mountain road, and saw the neat village of Aden below, the newly built buildings were featureless, and the icons and the word "YADING" in the wheat field were extremely eye-catching, which were said to have been made of different colors of wheat before, but now they seem to be painted. The car can only drive to the parking lot under the Chonggu Temple, which is less than 4,000 meters above sea level, climb a stone staircase to the battery car terminal, and the battery car reaches the farthest Luorong Cattle Farm at 4,180 meters. Mr. Wang asked us to pick up three small stones along the road, and we would know what to do when we said that. Walking to a platform, Mr. Wang asked us to throw stones on the small stone pile on the side of the road, saying that if the three do not roll down, there is a Buddha fate, the top of the stone pile is smooth, it is very difficult not to roll down, only two or three people saved three stones, I know that I have no Buddha fate, and the stones are also very interesting to fall. Considering that there were many elderly personnel in the regiment, the regiment commander did not adopt Mr. Wang's suggestion to go to the Milk Sea or the Five-Color Sea (the altitude of 4,400 meters and 4,800 meters blocked the way), but returned to the Luorong Cattle Farm. The weather in the morning was very cooperative, the blue sky and white clouds, the Xiannai Rifeng was clearly presented, and it was cloudy at noon to the Luorong Cattle Farm, Yangmai Yongfeng just refused to show up, and it was still hidden in the clouds after we ate at the rest area, so we had to give up. When going down the mountain, the soldiers were divided into three routes, some took a half-way battery car and then took the plank road, went to Chonggu Temple and returned directly to the battery car terminal. When everyone finished their trip and got into the van one after another, it started to rain. All the way to the gate, the rain stopped halfway, and the two rainbows crossed the valley like a double-decker arch bridge, which was perfect.
I walked around the town at night, the town is very small, there are not many tourists, the shops are empty, and the music coming from the bar cannot hide the depression, and the impact of the epidemic this year is huge. There is a Rock trail that got its name at some point, and it is clear that Locke's discovery a hundred years ago brought life to this place, and he is destined to be commemorated. The famous Shangri-La is a scenic spot in Yunnan, which was confirmed by Yunnan Province in 1997 after a series of investigations, based on the British novel "The Vanishing Horizon".And this Shangri-La town in western Sichuan was the first to be named this name, and the locals were very upset about it.
The fourth day was the hardest day, and something went wrong with our car: the tire pressure alarm. Let a few understanding people in the group read it, and they all said that there was no big problem with the tire pressure, and they paid more attention to the car condition when they drove again. When renting a car, the clerk also said that when you go to the plateau area, the air pressure is low, and the tires will have false alarms. Today I am going to Meili Snow Mountain, and Mr. Wang plans to take the trail, which can be nearly 100 kilometers. Passing by an unknown mountain, I walked a bumpy walk for several kilometers to a place where there was no road inside, and saw a small nameless lake, with water all year round, calm and turquoise, surrounded by shrubs and wildflowers, Mr. Wang said they called it God's tears. There are many locals digging cordyceps on the mountain, and my companions bought a few, 30 yuan a piece, and I don't know how good it is.
Arriving at the township near noon, an 800-year-old linden tree stood quietly in the village. Legend has it that in the twelfth century, when the Great Treasure Dharma King went to Qingde to preach/teach, once the Buddha bead thread in his hand broke, the Buddha beads were scattered all over the ground, and everyone helped to pick them up everywhere, but two were missing, and the Great Treasure Dharma King said that these two beads were related to this place, and later two Bodhi mother trees grew here, and the Tibetan word "just called" means the Buddha beads in the hand, hence the name of the township. Another tree is missing, and this Bodhi Buddha bead is highly respected by the Tibetan people and does not need to be consecrated. This small village left us with a good impression, the streets are clean, the flowers and plants in front of and behind the house are lush, the stream flows slowly, and an old house has been rebuilt by the designer into a homestay hotel, which is very beautiful, and the dishes are light and delicious. It makes people want to stay for a while. Moreover, this area is a plateau valley, with a relatively low altitude, and a large area of farmland stretches along Provincial Highway 217, which is very eye-catching.
After lunch, we continued on the road, and after walking for more than an hour, the road was cut off, so we had to return to the provincial road, and Mr. Wang sent us to the fork in the road and waved goodbye. We followed the navigation to a tunnel, the tunnel construction did not work, and then turned back to the old road, the old road has experienced many collapses, and it has been in disrepair, very difficult to walk, and the speed can reach 20 kilometers per hour. I don't know how many mountains I have crossed before leaving Sichuan, and the sky is gradually getting dark, and the regiment commander said that if I can't make it to Deqin today, I will stay overnight in Benzilan Town. Fortunately, my son and his wife came to Deqin from Yunnan to wait for us today, and they said that it would be easy to walk on the road to Province 214. It was more than nine o'clock in Benzilan, and after crossing the bridge over the Jinsha River, I entered Yunnan Provincial Highway 214.
Sure enough, we didn't encounter bad roads again, and we successfully reached Deqin all the way to Deqin by the moonlight and the reflection of the White Horse Snow Mountain, and my son picked us up at the fork in the road to the hotel. It took a long time to scan the health code and enter the ID card information one by one, and it was past 11 o'clock in the room. This SUNYATA resort hotel is the work of a Chongqing designer who studied in Japan. There is a simple and low-key Japanese style, a lot of white space, the room is large and has floor-to-ceiling windows, and the public space on the third floor has a wide view, and you can see the Meili Snow Mountain when it is sunny. The downside is that there is no elevator. Breakfast is similar to the hotel, with fewer varieties and considerate care. Dinner needs to be booked, whether you want chicken or duck or beef and the hotel says that they go to purchase, but you may not be able to buy what you want, so the reservation is just an intention, they will make adjustments, and basically he has the final say on what to eat and how to eat. 100 yuan per person is full, which is similar to the manor on the first day. We booked dinner the next day, and the main course was roast duck and chicken stew, as well as a couple of stir-fries, all of which tasted good. Overall, the employees are working hard. When I entered the room, I saw a handwritten welcome card on the coffee table, and the beautiful small handwriting made me feel good, but the price of more than 2,000 a night was a bit not worth it.
the morning of the fifth day, I wanted to see the scenery on the third floor, but it was foggy outside, I couldn't see anything, and the small village at the foot of the mountain appeared and disappeared in the clouds.
The weather was bad, so the regiment commander decided to set off for Feilai Temple in the late morning, and the platform in front of Feilai Temple overlooked Deqin County and Meili Snow Mountain, but it was not visible. Walking forward to a large platform with a better location, parking the car and taking pictures, someone comes over to charge, and registers an ID card, as if it is 20 yuan per person. Although the clouds and mist shrouded in Cavaberg and disappeared, the nearby snow-capped mountains could still be seen, and everyone took pictures in various combinations and poses. My photography bag was not zipped properly, and the lens cover fell off. The son went down to look for it in the bushes and picked up several, one of which was very similar, and it was still wrong to bring it back and wash it for a try.
Eat at noon at a nearby yak meat hot pot restaurant, the yak meat is very tender and has no smell, the radish stewed together is more delicious, melts in the mouth, everyone praises it, and with the white wine peanuts that come with it, this meal is the most memorable meal along the way. In the afternoon, I went to Mingyong Glacier with my sons, and the others went to see the White Horse Snow Mountain. It was past three o'clock when we arrived at the gate of the glacier, bought tickets and battery tickets (a total of 102 yuan), the car could save us six kilometers, the driver sent us to a small pavilion and said that he would be back here at five o'clock at the latest, he sent us down, and there was no car if we were late. We climbed up along the wooden plank road, although the altitude here is only more than 2,000 feet above sea level, we are still out of breath, at the beginning of a section of dense and high woods, you can't see the sky, and then go up to the edge of the hillside, there are fewer trees and more flowers, blooming delicately, you can see a few Xiaoice rivers on the opposite mountain, after a relatively slow and ruined plank road to a mani pile, you can see the funnel-shaped glacier pouring down from the main peak of Cavaberg. The weather was bad, and the top of the mountain and the sky merged into one, and it was gray. Time was limited, so we had to go back, and it is said that there is no better view if you go any further. Along the way, I only met two groups of tourists with a total of 5 people. Waiting for the bus at the small pavilion, several camel mules and workers rested here, the mules had mottled fur, some were lame, some were broken, all listless, looking pitiful, and the beautiful and leisurely ram on the mountain was not in the same state at all. In the evening, I went back to the hotel for dinner with two families.
On the sixth day, we entered the second half of the trip - entering Tibet along Provincial Highway 214. The thousand-year-old salt field is here, a very narrow path, there is no place to park, and more than a dozen cars drove in to attract locals to come out to watch. The local accompanying command vehicles stopped one by one through the "bridge" built by two wooden planks to a relatively flat place, and walked to the salt shed by the river, and the docent told us that this was the place where Ge/Sa/Wang and the local Naxi people fought for territory and resources, and King Ge/Sa/Er won the victory and generously gave up this salt field to the Naxi people, so now it is a Naxi autonomous county in the Tibet Autonomous Region. There are two types of salt: red and white, the white one is more processed and edible, and the red one is used as bath salt or foot soaking, but people who pay attention to it now buy commercial salt to eat, and the salt fields are becoming more and more touristy.
Having lunch at noon at a Naxi Net/Red Shop farmhouse, his noodles are famous, and he also made a gimmick, if anyone can eat 50 bowls of noodles at a time, they will be free of charge. Put a bowl of small stones on the table, eat a bowl and put a stone in front of you to count, in fact, the so-called bowl is just a chopstick, girls eat six or seven bowls is no problem, nine bowls are also fine, boys twelve or thirteen bowls are not a thing, I ate seven bowls. The table is as high as a coffee table, and the guests sit face to face on a long hard sofa, and each table is filled with a table of dishes, including ham made from Tibetan pigs, yak meat, and various stir-fried dishes. When I was about to finish eating, the proprietress came over to sing and toast.
In the afternoon, after passing the 4448-meter Hongla Pass to Mangkang County, I didn't expect the county seat to be so beautiful, shopping malls, theaters, schools, stadiums are all available, maybe it has just been built or affected by the epidemic, and there is no one on the street without cars. Two travelers and a pair of elementary school students who returned to school in school uniforms were all the people we met.
This time I went to Sichuan and Tibet and strongly felt that the living standards in Tibetan areas had improved a lot compared with more than ten years ago, the roads were much easier, the convenience of transportation had broadened people's horizons, new houses were built, food, clothing, housing and transportation were improved, people's education level was higher, their knowledge was broader, and the lifestyle of young people was more modern. The Tibetan driver who drove us back then is now the owner of several hotels, and his daughter is also going to university in Beijing. Continue to Rumei Town, stay in the famous Songzan Mountain Residence, Songzan has a number of hotels in Yunnan and Tibet, Tibetan packaging, Western-style facilities, exquisite site selection, not in the city center but in the place where the scenery enters the window, in recent years this style is more flattering, popular. The interior of the room is a wooden structure, the sink is copper, and the hand washing, shower and toilet are separated without interfering with each other. The breakfast is a combination of Chinese and Western, and Tibetan characteristics such as tsampa are also added. For dinner, we chose Western style, with appetizers, two main courses and desserts, all of which were full of color and flavor. It's a pity that I don't dare to let go of dinner.
The seventh day was relatively easy, and we went to a newly developed pasture where the visitor center was still under construction. We drove a stretch of road to the side of the plank road and climbed over the railing to enter the plank road. The view here is wide, the green grass and black cow creek are at your feet, the snow-capped mountains are in the distance, the blue sky is overhead, and all the colors are so pure.
Originally planned to stay at Ranwu Lake at night, the people of Changdu suggested staying at a lower altitude, and they said that it was best to sleep below 3,000 meters at night. Basu Dora Shenshan Hot Spring Hotel is close to the Nu River, which may be the best in this small county, it is the feeling of the guest house before, the facilities and hygiene are poor, but each room is equipped with a large oxygen cylinder, and the safety work is in place.
Dinner is a very sumptuous table of Sichuan cuisine, and since then most of the time I have eaten Sichuan cuisine, meat is more spicy, heavy oil and salt, the variety of vegetables is rich, I can eat enough vegetables and fruits every day, as well as local yogurt, which I didn't expect before. The Tibetan people in Sichuan, Yunnan and the Changdu region of Tibet belong to the Kampa Tibetans, the so-called Kampa menzi, tall and beautiful, they are very proud of their people/species, it is said that Japanese women were once popular here to give birth to babies in order to improve their offspring. But aren't the locals I see so tall and beautiful, maybe foreigners?
On the eighth day, we headed towards Ranwu Lake. The weather is gloomy and the lake view is greatly reduced. Fortunately, there is a very well-designed resort here, which adds some artificial scenery. was wandering around and heard a burst of restless music, a girl was shooting a video for five "senior guys" and five big motorcycles, the motorcycles were all Yu K00000 and other big bull license plates with five consecutive numbers, they probably broadcast live all the way. After lunch, at the suggestion of the coordinator, we bought tea and coffee, and enjoyed an afternoon tea with our own dried fruit snacks.
We took a battery car in, there were few tourists, there were still locals setting up stalls at the end of the battery car, and someone in the group bought some jewelry, saying that it was to help the poor. Originally, the battery car could continue to drive in, but in order to give the locals some living subsidies, ZF left this road for them to do horseback riding tours, 100 yuan at a time, because of the small business, each family took turns to do it, and now it has been completely stopped. We didn't hike, we took pictures around and returned.
Bomi is an old tourist attraction at first glance, with many shops on the street, hotels on the side, and street buildings are some years old. The Palong Zangbo River passes through the city and is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. We stayed at the Tibet/Wang Hotel and the locals arranged a trip to Motuo for the next day, which was an unplanned destination for our group. It's not that I don't want to go, but I don't dare to think about it.
As the last county in China to have a highway, the only road that is connected to the outside world is not in good condition, and there are always landslides, so it can only go one way, in a single day and in and out of the sun. I heard that a western highway coming in from Nyingchi is being built. The morning departure was cloudy and foggy, and it rained and stopped along the way. Here we used a local car and a driver, the driver is a tall, handsome and shy young man named Xiang Badogi, always with a very peaceful expression, I have never seen him in a hurry, not very talkative, ask one question and answer a sentence, sometimes you have to ask two or three sentences to answer a sentence. He listened to popular songs all the way, many of which were in Cantonese. After walking for a while, I saw a slender waterfall, and the stone below was engraved: Brahmaputra Grand Canyon National Nature Reserve, and then walked a little to the Galonla Tunnel, Dorjee said that there was no tunnel to wind the mountain before, as long as it snowed, you couldn't get in and out. After passing the tunnel all the way down, both sides of the road gradually turned into tropical plants, the air became more and more humid, and he was in a trance to Hainan, Dorji said that it was too hot here, and he couldn't stand the heat every time he came, and he wished to run away quickly. There are several landslides that cut off the road, and you can only drive over the rocks or puddles, and the bridge next to it is being repaired, and you can cross the bridge in the near future.
Motuo is high in the north and low in the south, with an altitude difference of more than 7,000 meters from the Nanga Bawa Peak to the border/border, resulting in the most complete vertical climate zone spectrum in China. A variety of plants grow from the cold zone to the tropics, including many rare species. In Motuo Tibet, they are a minority, mainly the Menba and Luoba ethnic groups.In the past ten years, ZF has made a lot of effort to connect electricity, communications, TV signals and highways, build schools and hospitals, develop tourism, and lift Motuo out of poverty. The Gladandong Hotel looks pretty good, with glass curtain walls, small rooms, and simple decoration, but it is not easy to reach this level when you think that transportation is so difficult. There is a park not far away, a lake water adds a little beauty to the local area, which is more than 1,100 meters above sea level, which is very comfortable. A special stone produced locally has been used for pots since the Stone Age, resulting in the specialty Motuo stone pot and the famous dish stone pot chicken. It is said that this soap asbestos is soft, non-stick, heat retention, fast heat transfer, rich in trace elements, stone pot straight bucket shape, gray color, heavy weight, one price is less than 1,000, more than several thousand. After lunch, we went up the mountain to Renqingbeng Temple, this road is even more like a road, workers are building and expanding the road, all kinds of engineering vehicles are busy, we have to give way when we pass them, we really can't let us go, we wait. After going through hardships, I arrived in front of the temple, I was disappointed, the courtyard gate was dilapidated, the paint was mottled, the houses in the courtyard were even more dilapidated and messy, and the main building was neither tall nor luxurious. Dorjee and his companion Bamu unanimously said that this temple was the most spiritual in the entire Nyingchi and had a very high status, and they were all blessed to come to the temple to worship. According to reports, Renqing means treasure, collapse means many, and I understand that it is a cornucopia. It is said that the surrounding mountains are like lotus flowers when viewed from above, so it is also called the Lotus Holy Land. There is really a treasure in the temple, the copper gilt pagoda with a history of thousands of years, older than the temple itself, unknown origin, about 20 centimeters high, the top of the tower can be lifted, and you can see the Buddha/statue inside, which is very exquisite. The temple was rebuilt in 1983 after the earthquake, a single building, with three floors on the outside and two floors on the inside, and a piece protruding outward on each side of the square structure, like a four-door porch, so that 12 corners are formed, chic and light. The locals explained that this is one of the eight disguisions of Padmasambhavia, and it is necessary to subdue ghosts while benefiting all living beings, and he has practiced in the cemetery for many years, which may be what makes him different from other monks. Rinpoche was erudite and powerful, and introduced Buddhism to Tibet from India in the eighth century, majoring in Sanye Monastery, and it can be said that all the monks in Tibet were his students.
Continue south on the only road down the mountain to the fructose turn. This corner has a bit of a small jasper feeling, delicate and elegant, lush trees, perfect shape, slightly lacking in spirit, and the observation deck is ugly and roughly built. When I crossed the river on the way, I saw a rattan bridge next to it, which was very exquisite and should not be used.
When I came back, there was a souvenir shop on the side of the road, selling some rattan supplies and stone pots, etc., everyone looked left and right and didn't buy anything, the price was slightly expensive. I found a restaurant to eat stone pot chicken in the evening, and the palm ginseng in it aroused everyone's interest, which really resembled a palm, and tasted noose, with a slight medicinal taste. Bamu bought a bucket of chicken foot wine from somewhere, not a wine made from chicken feet, but a wine made from chicken feet and rice.
the morning of the tenth day, the weather was good, and we returned to Bomi and went straight to Lulang without making a stop. It started to rain again, and we arrived at the Evergrande Hotel in Nyingchi, a small town in Lulanggoncuo, and despite the poor visibility, you can still see the beauty of the town.
This is a project of cooperation between Guangdong and Nyingchi a few years ago, which has both poverty alleviation and tourism nature. Evergrande, Poly and Pearl River have teamed up to develop this small area on the side of Gongcuo, building hotels, catering, entertainment, shopping facilities, and an art museum, combining modern concepts and high-end facilities with first-class scenery to make people linger, which is one of my favorite places. The shops are closed, only two or three restaurants are open. This epidemic! How many people's lives have been destroyed.The weather is not very good, this season is the period of warm and humid air currents in the Indian Ocean, and Motuo bears the brunt of this humid and rainy weather, because the Nyingchi area, the passage of the Brahmaputra River Grand Canyon, is the same, the rainy season from May to October every year, and the other half of the year is dry. The best season to come here is April and October, when spring and autumn are the most beautiful, and try to avoid rain. I ate stone pot chicken again in the evening, which is much more particular about tableware and production than Mo Tuo's.
On the morning of the eleventh day, I left the hotel to go to Lulang Linhai, I don't know if it rained all night, the rain was quite heavy in the morning, I went to have breakfast with an umbrella, but fortunately, the rain stopped after the meal, the clouds were dense, and the forest sea became a dark shadow, and I went to the observation deck on the side of the national highway to take a few undesirable photos, and I just visited here.If you want to go down, you have to take a battery car and it will take some time, and everyone thinks it's not worth it.
At noon, we drove into Nyingchi city and stayed at Botai Nyingchi Hotel. In the afternoon, we came to Nanyigou - a place I had never heard of. It is said that there are many snow-capped mountains, clear water, green trees and flowers here. After walking for a while at the airport, I turned to the ordinary road and then stopped on the country road, and when I saw the group leader and the escort in the car for a long time, I finally informed everyone that "we won't go in", confused, there happened to be a large grass on the side of the road, tender green, and the accompaniment suggested that we walk along the plank road. A shallow stream winds and doesn't know where it came from, strange trees are scattered, and never-before-seen flowers quietly bloom or wither on the side of the road, and this unknown grassland brings us relaxation and enjoyment.
Return to the cypress king garden in the city to pay respects to the world's most famous cypress that is more than 3,000 years old, which stands at a height of 3,040 meters and has a circumference of more than 14 meters. The tree is 50 meters high, and no one should object to the world's first, and there are many cypress trees that are two or three thousand years old in the garden.
When I went back to the hotel and didn't have dinner with everyone, the three of us set off for the river valley again, because when I passed by just now, I thought the river valley was very beautiful, and I wanted to take pictures while the sun was setting. Nyingchi was built along the Niyang River, which joins the Brahmaputra River not far away. There are many shallows in this section of the river downstream of Nyingchi, and it took us a lot of effort to get off the road to find a small dirt road and walk into the river beach, which disappeared as we walked. At the foot are weeds and wildflowers, as well as small puddles, and in the distance are green mountains and snow-capped mountains. It's a pity that the clouds are too thick, so it would be better if they were thinner. I wanted to walk to the river, but it was too difficult to walk, and I couldn't see the surrounding situation, and it was getting dark, so I was afraid of getting lost and returned.
In the evening, everyone goes shopping in the market, and there are a lot of medicines sold in Tibet, not only local medicinal materials, but also Sichuan, Yunnan, Xinjiang, and even Iranian, and the price is quite expensive. Many people bought palm ginseng, ranging from one hundred to four or five hundred pounds. One of my colleagues saw Chuanbei asking for a price, and the store said a very high number and said that you can taste it, it's different. He really tasted it, it was so bitter that he jumped to his feet, and said more than ten "too bitter", I was curious about how bitter it was, I heard my colleagues say that eating chicken wings was so spicy, I rarely tried this ultimate taste, I didn't want to make myself so painful, but I also lost some of the fun of life because of this.
On the twelfth day, I got up early and went to Fujian Park near the hotel alone, pavilions dotted around a pool of lake, and a stone boat, a duck family was leisurely, mandarin ducks were playing in the water, a small place with a Jiangnan style, only the snow-capped mountains in the distance and Hadayun surrounding the mountainside revealed its location information.
After breakfast, we set off for the last stop, Lhasa. Not long after the construction of the Linla Expressway, the road is smooth and straight, and the speed of 120 kilometers per hour has swept away the suffocation of walking on the mountain road these days, in order to be able to rush to Lhasa for dinner at noon, the lead car began to speed up, and we could only follow. As a result, two days later, I received an illegal text message from the car rental company. The car rental company gave me a ten-day deadline, and when the ten days arrived, they charged me a pre-fine of more than 2,300 yuan, saying that I could deal with it in time and then refund it. In this way, it is still a little more than a little past to Lhasa. After eating hot pot in a fairly large restaurant, seafood sashimi was served, and Tibet is not what it used to be. Then drive to the mountain on the south bank of the river to check in at the Lhasa Songzan Qujilinka Hotel, ten two- and three-story small buildings are built on the mountain, the lobby and restaurant are a separate building, very beautiful and tiring, there is no elevator up and down the stairs every day, and you have to climb the mountain to eat. The room is large, it is a suite, it is said to have been designed in the style of a noble house in Lhasa, with diffuse oxygen supply, and in the room you can overlook the Potala Palace, albeit small.We stayed just in time for the weekend, the hotel gave away opera performances and afternoon tea, four people performed, two accompaniments, two singing, the tune was monotonous, there was no Tibetan high-pitched loudness, but like the Beijing rhyme drum, they didn't do any explanation, just sang one by one, accompanied by simple hand-to-hand movements, it is said that they sang the stories of some talented women. This kind of drama began to form after Princess Wen/Cheng entered Tibet, and should be related to Han drama, mainly for the nobility to appreciate. What surprised me was the afternoon tea, the Western pastries were so authentic, I ate several pieces, and I felt embarrassed. In the evening, we had dinner in the hotel to celebrate the safe arrival of all the people, and Sister Wang's husband also flew to the meeting, the dish was Chinese and Western, the main course was steak, and the head of the group took out the famous whiskey wine that had been treasured all the way, plus liquor and wine, pushed the glass and changed the glass, thanked each other, and was full of emotion. I think these people were all powerful figures back then, but now they are retired and still do not accept their old age, and they want to drive themselves on the snowy plateau before the age of seventy. Now that I have fulfilled my wish, I am proud of it.
On the morning of the thirteenth day, visit the Potala Palace. The Potala Palace is only open to a small part, concentrated in the Red Palace, and must follow the guide to return to the place for more than an hour. This is the most densely populated place along the way, and I am often stopped by other groups and cannot find my guide, and sometimes I can't hear what she is saying because of the crowd. I looked at the statue of Avalokiteshvara in sandalwood (here I accepted the Hada from the monk), the Lingpa Hall, the Mandala Hall and many other halls, and I couldn't find the north, the light in the palace was not good, and I couldn't take pictures for future reference, so I almost forgot when I came back. What I can remember is the world's largest diamond on the Fifth Dalai Spirit Pagoda, as well as the natural sandalwood Guanyin statue, which is uncarved, but it is too small and far away, and it is in the glass box, and it is not seen clearly at all. The exterior wall of the Red Palace is very special, called the White Horse Grass Wall, which is made of a small tree through complex processes, which is lightweight and warm, and can also catch arrows. The Potala Palace preserves a large number of cultural relics, statues, thangkas, murals, scriptures, etc., as well as spiritual pagodas, and there is a saying that gold is the least valuable in the Potala Palace.
Coming out of the Potala Palace to the Jokhang Temple, which was under repair, we entered through the small door at the back. A monk explained to us, it can be seen that he is very familiar with every corner of the Jokhang Temple, he speaks with flying eyebrows, his mouth is like a river, like a treasure, his body language is rich, the head of the group has urged him to enter the next topic many times, just a simple introduction, I think he can speak for three days without stopping him. He said so much that I mostly forgot. There are also statues of Song/Zan/Gan Bu and Princess Wen/Cheng and many other eminent monks in the temple, all of which have stories. In the afternoon, I revisited Roblinka, how did I feel that it was smaller than the last time I saw it? Very puzzled. Maybe it was because there were no tourists last time I came early in the morning, and the experience of looking at the Tibetan mastiff frightened me and made me misplaced.
In the evening, a local friend invited everyone to a unique bar for a drink. This floating bar was opened by a big boy from Beijing, Binzi, who rode to Lhasa 17 years ago, and he couldn't stay, drinking, smoking, singing and playing poor, living a simple and happy life. He chatted casually, saying that his mother had beaten him all the time when he was a child, and beat him to Tibet, and the authentic Beijing dialect and the unclear pronunciation with his tongue rolled up made people feel like they were in Beijing Hutong.
On the fourteenth day, we set off on a bicycle to Namtso. A section of the road in the middle was washed away, and the rest was easy to walk. Arrived at the gate of the scenic spot at nearly 12 o'clock, bought a ticket for 120 yuan, the public toilet was dirty without water, and it took more than an hour to drive to the lake. Namcuo is so big, you can see different lake views from different positions, and you can feel like a blind person touching an elephant. After eating lunch, I came to the main scenic spot, that is, there is a place with a large stone carved on the name, from the parking lot to the lake is a gentle slope, I saw many people holding oxygen cylinders and supporting each other to walk, some simply holding the railing to rest on the spot, the altitude of 4718 is not a joke. With just the right blue sky and white clouds as the background, Namtso looks even more enchanting, the white yak is used to take pictures, and is pushed into the water and pulled ashore to keep at the mercy, will it envy the birds that shuttle freely in the sky and water? And those ugly black yaks and gray sheep who wander freely and eat non-stop? Beauty is sometimes a disaster! After staying by the lake for a while, the clouds came up and we set off on our way home.
came back with a rain shower, and unfortunately encountered a check when entering Lhasa.The large and small vehicles were discharged several kilometers away, and finally lined up at the inspection gate, and after showing their ID cards, they were called to the side to park, because we were from Beijing, and there was another new crown case on the 11th in Beijing. JC asked us to scan a code on the left and a code on the right, filled in a lot of information, tossed for a long time, and the two of us passed, the other just couldn't pass, JC helped fill it in, and then he waved his hand and let us go.
On the fifteenth day, the cousin of the beautiful woman in the group came to play with her, and we went to Yangzhuo Yongcuo together. My cousin worked in Shannan after graduating from the mainland, and he was very familiar with this area, and he led the way with a lot of worry. He drove all the way to a flat place on the mountain and stopped the car, and when asked, he said that this section was the speed limit for the whole section, and the time from the entrance to the exit could not be shorter than the regulations. While waiting, I saw a person playing and singing, I don't know if it is professional, the level is okay, and I have to pay for taking photos and videos. He is from Shandong, and he has nothing to do due to the epidemic, so he drove out with his wife and daughter while walking and singing, and there were scarves and shawls in the car to sell to those in need. Life is not easy, but there is always a way to have fun. Yang Zhuo Yongcuo 60 yuan, there are also yaks to take pictures, and there are also Tibetan mastiffs. The Tibetan mastiff is as docile as a big dog, completely different from the one I saw. The beauty and the big dog took many group photos. The sky is gloomy and dark, and the scenery is much inferior.
In the afternoon, we went directly to the airport, because the speed limit was basically 30-60 kilometers, driving very slowly, and countless cars overtook us, I still didn't dare to accelerate, for fear of being fined again. We returned the car, and the people from the car dealership drove us to the terminal, and Bamu had already arranged for us to board. In order to save money, we chose to transfer from Xining, and went directly to the second floor to check in without scanning the code to enter Xining, without carrying luggage, and everything went smoothly and returned to Beijing where the epidemic recurred.
This accommodation experience is two types, one is a standard star hotel, and the other is a national-style design hotel. Standard hotels vary a lot due to different grades in different places, such as Basu and Motuo are guest house upgrades, Nyingchi and Shangri-La can be four stars, complete facilities, good hygiene, and spacious and comfortable public spaces. I am experiencing a design hotel for the first time, there are small surprises, eye care is the most important thing in this type of hotel, the interior and outside the window are very carefully arranged, and a seat will be set up in the best position, so that you can sit down and enjoy the fun. In addition, the warm service is also a major feature, there is no unified clothing, not standardized service, but the taste of home, send some snacks, beautiful drinks, put on slippers at night, the staff will chat with you, and eating is also the feeling of what to eat at home, so that you no longer mind their unprofessionalism and inadequacy, and even feel cordial. But some people are not very comfortable, there is no comfortable sofa, no writing desk, the height of the furniture is not suitable, etc. One thing makes me very depressed, the room key is huge, copper, and hangs a bunch of decorations, it feels like it weighs hundreds of grams, and it is really a burden to carry it on my body every day, maybe Tibetans are like this.
Tibet is a mysterious, sacred, and mythical place in the eyes of so many people, and if you don't go, you will regret it for life, and so many people have gone again and again. In my opinion, these days are full of snow-capped mountains, bald mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, meadows, wastelands, winding mountain roads, and other places. Why does this land keep attracting people? I think it is the passion of people, the difficult road, the changeable climate, and the thin air that are triggered by its difficulties, all of which are challenging human beings, and human beings have never lacked the desire to overcome nature.
Afterreturning from Tibet, I found "The Log Cabin" on the Internet and read it again, and the forester named Xu Fengxiang went to Tibet more than a dozen times under such difficult conditions back then, and dedicated his life to trees and flowers.
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