Langmusi: A spiritual home for poetry and the distance.
by Ember Bell
Oct 18, 2024
Langmusi, a small town straddling the border between Sichuan and Gansu provinces, boasts rich natural landscapes and cultural history. It is a sacred site of Tibetan Buddhism.
1. Establishment of Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries
At the heart of Langmusi are two Tibetan Buddhist Gelugpa monasteries:
- Saichisi Monastery in Gansu: Built in 1748 by the Gelugpa monk Saichi Jayang Xieba, the monastery houses the stupas of successive living Buddhas. Its golden roof shines brilliantly and offers panoramic views of the town, making it a perfect spot for photography.
- Gerti Monastery in Sichuan: With an even longer history, this monastery treasures the mummified remains of the fifth Gerti Living Buddha, preserved for over 300 years, regarded as the monastery's most sacred relic.
2. The "Boundary" of Bailong River
The source of the Bailong River is a narrow stream less than two meters wide, yet it serves as the natural boundary between Gansu and Sichuan. Locals say, "One step spans two provinces, and river water brews one tea." To the north of the stream lies Saichisi Monastery in Gansu, while to the south is Gerti Monastery in Sichuan. Despite the administrative division, residents on both sides share similar languages and customs, creating the intriguing "one town, two provinces" phenomenon. Visitors can cross between Sichuan and Gansu multiple times in a day, making for a fun social media caption: "Special Forces in action—three hours traversing two provinces, unstoppable!"
3. Discovery by Western Explorers
In the 1940s, American missionary Robert Ekvall described Langmusi as "Little Switzerland of the East" in his book "Horizons of Tibet," highlighting its snow-capped mountains, grasslands, red rock canyons, and Tibetan-style architecture. Since then, Langmusi has gained recognition among Western backpackers and become a landmark destination in Gannan tourism.
4. Sky Burial Platform and Reflections on Life and Death
On the hillside behind Saichisi Monastery in Gansu lies a sky burial platform, one of the few in Tibetan areas open to visitors. The local Tibetan community continues the tradition of sky burials, viewing death as the soul's departure from the body. Offering the body to vultures (considered manifestations of "sky-walking mothers") symbolizes generosity and reincarnation. This practice adds an air of mystery to Langmusi and serves as a reminder of reverence for life and nature.
5. Fusion of Diverse Cultures
Langmusi is home to multiple ethnic groups, including Tibetans, Hui, and Han. Tibetan Buddhist monasteries stand side by side with mosques. In the morning, the chanting of Buddhist scriptures mingles with the call to prayer from the mosque, while the aroma of Tibetan butter tea and Hui beef noodles fills the air. This unique cultural coexistence makes exploring the town's diverse ethnic traditions and cuisines a fascinating and worthwhile experience.
Travel Tips
- Best Season: Summer (June to August) when the grasslands are lush and green.
- Must-Visit Spots: Fairy Cave, Bailong River Canyon, Saichisi Monastery's golden roof, and Gerti Monastery's mummified relic hall.
- Respect Customs: Photography is prohibited during sky burial ceremonies, walk clockwise around monasteries, and avoid touching religious artifacts.
Langmusi is not only a dialogue between nature and faith but also a testament to the coexistence of diverse civilizations. Its charm lies not just in its scenery but in its transcendent tranquility and inclusiveness.
If you're interested, click the link below to explore routes and guides. Let us take you on a journey to discover and deeply experience this enchanting place.
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