Thanks to Wu Guanzhong, I stepped into a $27 million painted mansion in Shanxi.

Having seen enough of the idyllic countryside of the southern Jiangnan water towns, the three-dimensional villages on the Loess Plateau in the north offer a unique spectacle. Eleven stories of uniquely styled cave dwellings built on a 70-degree slope, this place is known as the "Potala Palace on the Loess Plateau."
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Previously rarely visited, the village gained fame after the renowned painter Wu Guanzhong created a painting here, *Cave Dwellings*, which sold for $27 million. It has since become a popular destination for sketching, with Wu describing it as resembling a "Han tomb" from the outside, but opening into an ancient and elegant cave dwelling, like a secluded Peach Blossom Land.
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This is an authentic Ming and Qing dynasty village, with diverse residential styles, from luxurious Qing dynasty homes to ordinary cave dwellings, which have stood silently on the Sanjin land for centuries. Back then, QiKou Ancient Town was a bustling commercial hub, and Lijia Mountain Village was where merchants settled their families. The village had two wealthy families, the East family and the West family, who competed with each other for over 300 years.
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Now, fewer than 50 residents remain in the village. I noticed that the villagers are full of energy and speak standard Mandarin. I met the internet-famous Niuniu's mom and the Singing Sister, both of whom were giving tours and sharing the village's history with visitors.
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📍Address: Lijia Mountain Village, Linxian County, Lüliang City, Shanxi Province
🎫Tickets: Free
🚗Driving is recommended; there's a parking lot at the village entrance.
🔸Visiting tips:
1️⃣Points of interest: The East family's house, the West family's house (Wu Guanzhong's residence, entry fee: 2 yuan), the spot where Wu Guanzhong painted his famous picture, and the 7-story cave dwelling.
2️⃣Official tour guides cost 50 yuan, while local villagers offer tours for 20–30 yuan.
3️⃣Because of its remote location, there are fewer people in the morning than in the afternoon. Suggested route: Lijia Mountain Village — QiKou Ancient Town — QiKou Ancient Commercial Road
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Post by Elijah.Moore^88 | Feb 26, 2025