Quanzhou: An ancient city where half is bustling with life and the other half is like a fairyland

On October 23, 2024, I departed Fuzhou and boarded an early high-speed train, preparing for a flashy, round-trip day trip to Quanzhou, the ancient city known for its "half-bustling, half-celestial" atmosphere.

The journey took only an hour, a short distance that transported me away from the city's rhythm and into a different kind of cadence.

As soon as we exited Quanzhou Station, the weather was beautiful, sunlight shimmering on the brick-red walls of the old streets. My younger cousin and I strolled between West Street and Flower Alley, one of Quanzhou's best-preserved historical districts, where ancient houses, cobblestone streets, old homes, and aged trees quietly coexist.

The streets were lined with handicraft shops, small bookshops, and quiet cafes. There was no overly commercial bustle, only the scent of time gone by.

We walked all the way to Kaiyuan Temple, where incense burned brightly, pagodas stood majestically, and monks sat in meditation, chanting amidst the dappled shadows of the trees. This thousand-year-old temple blends Central Plains Buddhism with Nanyang influences. The moment I clasped my hands in front of the temple, my heart calmed.

Leaving the temple, we headed to Xiaoxicheng, a nearby cultural landmark. It's become a new landmark in Quanzhou in recent years, with graffiti on old walls, signature walls featuring internet celebrities, dessert shops, and bookstores juxtaposed side by side, creating a seamless blend of past and present.

We took a few photos by the wall, where a message read, "People always walk too fast, forgetting to look back." At that moment, it felt as if the entire city was quietly reminding us to learn to walk more slowly.

For lunch, we chose Zhongshan Street, near the Bell Tower. Here, you'll find Quanzhou's most authentic snacks: oyster omelets, spring rolls, fried five-spice dumplings, and rice noodle soup. Every bite evokes a taste of memory and reflects the warmth of the locals' daily lives.

After satisfying our appetite and drinking, we slowed down our pace and stopped by the Fuwen Temple and Guanyue Temple, nestled among lush ancient trees and tranquil temples. Quanzhou is a place where Confucianism and the Martial Sage coexist in one place—a place of inclusiveness and diversity. As the sky darkened, we boarded the 18-minute high-speed train to Xiamen, where we'd spend the night and begin our next journey. On the return train, I reflected on the photos and moments I'd taken that day, and a special feeling welled up in my heart.

Quanzhou, beneath its ostentatious facade, embodies a profound culture and sensibility. Unlike some cities that strive to please tourists, it exists quietly, allowing you to slowly discover its beauty.

It's a bowl of steaming hot noodle soup, a small surprise around the corner of an old street, the Buddhist chants wafting from the gates of an ancient temple.

No guide is needed for Quanzhou; simply walk and explore, and you'll understand why this place was once the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road and why, even today, it remains so special.
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