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  6. Shokoji Temple

[Famous temples in Takaoka] (Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture, former province name: Etchu)



Takaoka was the central city of the western part of Ecchu (present-day Toyama Prefecture) and prospered as the secondary capital of the Kaga Domain (present-day southern Ishikawa Prefecture). Since Maeda Toshinaga (1562-1614) established the castle town, Takaoka, led by merchants who managed the trade of Kitamaebune ships and craftsmen with advanced casting techniques, established a unique position as one of Japan's leading industrial cities. In this way, Takaoka, which had the strong character of a self-governing city run by townspeople despite the enormous power of the Kaga Domain, nurtured a culture that was closely connected to the lives of its citizens, and traces of this can still be seen today in many traditional streetscapes. If you observe them carefully, you can see traces of faith that reflected the thoughts of the people, centered on Zen Buddhism and Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, which have been influential in the Hokuriku region since the Middle Ages.

① Unryuzan Shokoji Temple (photos 1-5)
This large Jodo Shinshu temple boasts a vast temple grounds of 20,000 square meters on a hill overlooking the Oyabe River near Fushiki, which prospered as the outer port of Takaoka. Its predecessor was Tsuchiyama Gobo, which was built as a base in Etchu Province by Rennyo (1415-1499), who is revered as the founder of the Shinshu sect. When it was first built, it was located in Tonami County in the western part of the province, but during the Sengoku period it wielded power as the base of the Ikko Ikki uprising, and was moved to its current location despite being burned by war. When the situation in the Hokuriku region stabilized, it steadily took root in the region under the protection of the feudal lord Sassa Narimasa (1536-1588) and the Maeda clan of the Kaga domain. In particular, the Maeda clan had a deep connection with Harunaga (1745-1810), who later became the feudal lord, and entered the temple as a monk at a young age. As a result, the temple continued to flourish throughout the Edo period, and a temple building was built that symbolized its wealth. Its majesty is still strong today, and the main gate at the top of the sloping approach and the towering drum hall beyond it give the impression of being as sturdy as a castle from the Warring States period. The sound of frogs echoes over the pond, which can be likened to a moat, and the main hall, which could be called the "honmaru" (main enclosure), appears after passing through the magnificent Karamon gate. The structure, which makes full use of horizontal space, unique to Shinshu temples, boasts an outstanding sense of stability, and is modeled after the Amida Hall of Nishi Honganji Temple in Kyoto, the head temple. It is the ninth largest building in Japan among the structures designated as national treasures and important cultural properties, and there is no doubt that it is one of the masterpieces of Shinshu architecture. On the other hand, in the Shoin and Oku Shoin, you can see the intricate design in the design that draws the worshippers deeper inside. Even in the dimly lit space, playful patterns are scattered on the inner walls and shoji screens, and the ingenuity that relieves people's tension seems to suggest one of the reasons why this temple has survived for so long.

② Machozan Kokutaiji Temple (photos 6-10)
Kokutaiji Temple stands quietly in the forest near the border between Takaoka City and Himi City, in the west of Amaharashi Coast, known as one of the most scenic spots in Toyama Prefecture. Looking down on the topography, it is located between the fertile fields and the seashore of Ecchu Province, in the center of a mountain range that seems to be isolated from the surrounding area by deliberately planting trees in a circle, making it a suitable location for a Zen Buddhist training center where people can sit in tranquility and practice. It began as a hermitage built on nearby Mt. Nijo by the Zen monk Jion Myoi (1274-1345), who was active during the Northern and Southern Courts period. As a temple that was offered to the Emperor, it was highly revered, especially by the Southern Court imperial lineage, and its status was raised. At one time it flourished, being placed among the top of the Five Mountains of Kyoto, and during the Edo period it was recognized by the shogunate as the head temple of a sect of the Rinzai sect. Despite its status, the temple's presence as a training center that was separate from the secular world exerted a hidden influence throughout the Hokuriku region, and even after it somewhat declined due to the anti-Buddhist movement, it is also known for being the place where Suzuki Daisetsu (1870-1966, a Buddhist scholar who introduced Zen culture and spirituality widely overseas) and Nishida Kitaro (1870-1945, a representative modern Japanese philosopher who put forward a unique philosophy deeply related to Zen Buddhism) visited in their youth, admiring its Zen style. The profound charm of the temple remains unchanged to this day, with the main gate, which is firmly set in harmony with the deep-colored trees, and the Hojo Garden, with its rows of rocks like towering mountain masses that give the impression of the rigor of Zen.

Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!)

Visit date: Around 11:00 on the second Sunday of April

Access: About 5 minutes on foot from Fushiki Station (to Shokoji Temple)

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Oct 31, 2024

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