Travel through five thousand years! Linfen's popular route: Touch the roots of Chinese civilization, savor the world of noodles

Linfen: Touching mountains, rivers, and civilization in the folds of time
At five in the morning, standing on the rooftop of a cave dwelling converted into a guesthouse, watching the Lüliang Mountains undulate like a crouching dragon’s spine in the morning mist, hearing the murmurs of the Yellow River in the distance and the bustling noise of the morning market beneath the old city wall—this is Linfen’s first gift to me. In the folds of southern Shanxi’s land, history and nature are performing an eternal duet.
Three-day through-line: From the heights of the imperial court to the far reaches of the common folk
Design logic: Following a three-part sequence of "historical axis - geological wonders - everyday life," progressing layer by layer from culture to nature to daily life, balancing depth and relaxation.
Day 1: Pilgrimage to the roots of civilization
- Morning: Yao Temple Complex (2 hours)
The solemn ochre-red main hall stands alongside thousand-year-old cypress trees. Admire the craftsmanship of the coffered ceiling where "stars revolve," and listen to local elders recount the ancient tales of Yao and Shun’s abdication.
- Afternoon: Ding Village, Xiangfen (3 hours)
Wander through the wooden carved window lattices of Ming and Qing dynasty courtyard houses, touch the brick-carved auspicious beasts of Qing-era residences, and watch guides dressed in Hanfu demonstrate movable type printing.
- Overnight: Pingyang Ancient City guesthouse area, recommended stay at "Guan Tang Bieyuan," a century-old residence transformed, where you can savor jujube paste rolls paired with jujube bud tea under the carved porch.
Travel tips
About 40 minutes by car from the city to Ding Village; private car hire recommended (around 200 RMB/day). Along the way, you’ll see a farming landscape of golden wheat fields and brick kiln chimneys. Shuttle buses operate between scenic spots, but note the last bus runs at 16:30.
Day 2: The epic scene of the Yellow River
- All day: Hukou Waterfall in Jixian + Kannan Slope (recommended 8:00-18:00)
Head straight to Hukou Waterfall at dawn when the slanting sunlight makes rainbows easiest to see in the mist. Put on a waterproof phone case and rush into the Dragon Cave (20 RMB ticket extra) to feel the roar of "Yellow River water coming from the sky" resonate in your chest. In the afternoon, stroll the Kannan Slope Anti-Japanese War site, where bullet holes in the ruins and wildflowers create a striking visual contrast.
Special experience
During the rainy season (July-September), you can book the live performance of "Yellow River Cantata" (198 RMB/person). When the suona horn sounds pierce through the roar of the waterfall, every pore tingles with excitement.
Day 3: The lively Pingyang
- Early morning: Drum Tower Morning Market (6:00-8:30)
Join the line behind ladies carrying bamboo baskets to buy Huozhou New Year bread, watch freshly fried oil crisps bloom like golden flowers in hot oil, and for just 3 RMB, enjoy piping hot chive flower tofu pudding.
- Afternoon: Great Pagoda Tree in Hongtong (2.5 hours)
Make rubbings of your family genealogy in the "Root-seeking and Ancestor Worship Hall," touch the second-generation ancient pagoda tree wrapped in copper skin, and watch sunlight filter through leaves onto the wishing ribbons at the altar, suddenly making the six-century-old immigrant lament vividly come alive in the fluttering red silk.
Taste DNA: The center of the noodle universe
Linfen people knead their devotion to noodles into every fold:
Xue Lao Wu Beef Meatball Noodles (Qingshi South Street, Yaodu District)
A legendary spot with lines even at 10 PM: the spicy and rich red oil broth is made from beef bones, hand-rolled beef meatballs are springy and juicy, paired with chilled sea buckthorn juice to perfectly counter the heat. My personal favorite is dipping crispy sesame crisps into the broth—15 RMB for a sweat-inducing bowl.
Lao Dong Heluo Noodles (No. 51 North Drum Tower Street)
The wooden noodle press for buckwheat noodles creaks on site, with toppings of either lamb mince or pickled tofu. Recommended to visit before 10 AM to watch the master’s skill of pressing dough with a 300-pound lever.
Hidden menu
The mobile stall "Hei Ye Yuanxiao" next to Jiefang Road Primary School (only in winter) serves freshly shaken glutinous rice balls coated with walnut pieces. Bite into the molten osmanthus red sugar filling. Six for 5 RMB, holding a hot enamel bowl on a cold night is the warmest street poetry.
Packing checklist
Recommended April to October
- Sandproof neck gaiter: Spring winds bring much sand; choose a breathable type that can double as a sun mask
- Stream trekking shoes: Stone paths at Hukou often have water; recommend V-shaped anti-slip soles
- Foldable seat cushion: Ancient sites like Ding Village often require sitting on the ground for tours; bring a portable foam pad
Photography gear
Gradient gray filter (to handle high contrast light at Hukou) + 35mm prime lens (great for street and cultural shots). I’ve seen veteran photographers smear Vaseline on the lens on sunny days to create a soft glow effect, making Yao Temple eaves look dreamlike.
At dusk, Linfen Railway Station, the green train fades into the Zhongtiao Mountains with a long whistle. My backpack holds a jujube wood rolling pin gifted by a Ding Village aunt, my collar still carries the peppery aroma of beef meatballs, but the deeper impression is hearing an old Yellow River boatman sing a sour tune with the line, "The Yellow River bends ninety-nine times, the most beautiful stories all happen here in Linfen." Perhaps this is the charm of traveling Shanxi—you meet artisans living more vividly than relics, and at some street corner, history suddenly shakes off its dust and reveals its warm true face.