Live Your Best Lives
Nowadays, most people give up staying at home to keep fat as long as they have time. Instead, they take advantage of the short holidays to rush out to enjoy the romantic atmosphere... This winter, for you who are ready to go out and see the world, we highly recommend Qiandongnan, Guizhou, and present you with an exclusive travel guide.
Of China's 56 ethnic minorities, 46 are represented here! I studied in Guizhou, and throughout my childhood, my classes were filled with Miao, Buyi, Shui, Dong, and even some, oddly enough, because their ethnic origins hadn't yet been determined, so I had to choose "Other" when reporting my ethnicity. Han people, on the other hand, resembled the "ethnic minority" in this class. In winter, when whitewater surfing is forbidden and the flowers and trees are mostly barren, coming to Guizhou to explore and experience the diverse and mysterious cultures of these pristine ethnic minorities is a great choice.
Southeast Guizhou is particularly renowned for its rich ethnic minority villages and remarkably well-preserved cultures. The tinkling of silver jewelry in the wind, the internationally renowned authentic songs of the Paris Golden Autumn Arts Festival, the uniquely beautiful totem-printed ethnic handicrafts, and the eye-opening array of distinctive village architecture...every detail makes you feel deeply moved: this is the real Guizhou: breathtaking mountains and rivers, vibrant ethnic cultures. The region boasts not only warm local customs and a rich history, but also a rich history. As a product manager for China-TravelNote put it: "Everything about it will captivate you. It's hard to imagine such a magical garden nestled deep within the vast mountains of our motherland."
Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, located in southeastern Guizhou, boasts a pristine ecological environment crisscrossed by ravines, rolling mountains, and towering cliffs. It's known as "nine mountains, half water, and half farmland." Thirty-three ethnic groups live here, including the Miao, Dong, Han, Shui, Yao, Zhuang, Buyi, and Tujia. The Miao make up 42.7% of the population, and the Dong 29.9%. Because each ethnic minority has its own unique festival, the area has earned the nickname "The Land of a Hundred Festivals." Over 200 festivals and gatherings are held annually. Activities include singing and dancing, bullfighting and horse racing, playing the Lusheng (Lusheng), performing bronze drums, dragon boat racing, dragon lanterns, and Dong opera.
Major ethnic festivals include the Miao people's Lusheng Festival, Climbing Festival, Sister Festival, April 8th, New Year's Eve, Dragon Boat Festival, Miao New Year, Dong New Year, Clay Figurine Festival, Wrestling Festival, Linwang Festival, March 3rd Song Festival, and Ershiping Song Festival, the Shui people's Duan Festival, and the Yao people's Panwang Festival. We particularly recommend the Miao people's dragon boat racing and martial arts, and the Dong people's firecracker-grabbing game, known as the "Oriental Rugby."
Here is a loop tour of Qiandongnan. As long as you can go around it, you can experience the most classic things in Qiandongnan all at once.
What kind of place is Guiyang? To Daya, she is a passionate and romantic girl.
She is lively - you can find delicious food everywhere on the street at 2-3 in the morning
She is peaceful and tranquil - in the jade ring of Jiaxiu Tower, the Nanming River flows quietly.
She has delicious food everywhere - sour soup fish, spicy chicken, old vegetarian noodles, cake porridge... ...
She is not prone to anger - the average temperature in summer is only around 27 degrees Celsius, and there is no biting cold in winter.
(Guiyang Landmark: Jiaxiu Tower)
Wenchang Pavilion, Yangming Temple, Catholic Church, Dajue Jingshe, Qianling Mountain Park, Xiaoguan Lake, Tianyi Forest Hot Springs, and the 7-kilometer Bund of the Future Ark, which is suitable for leisure, vacation and cultural experience, is stunning... Friends who arrive early can go to these places first.
(Guiyang snacks: Erqi Road - picture from the Internet)
Recommended food
[Erqi Road Snack Street]
This nearly 400-meter-long commercial pedestrian snack street features traditional local snacks from nine prefectures and cities in Guizhou, including Guiyang, Zunyi, Anshun, Bijie, Tongren, Qiannan, Qiandongnan, Qianxinan, and Liupanshui. These snacks showcase distinct regional culture, historical characteristics, and Guizhou specialties. Enjoy a bowl of renowned Changwang noodles, a serving of tender Qingyan pork knuckle, a bowl of piping hot Huaxi beef noodles, love tofu cakes, and Leijia tofu dumplings.
[Shaanxi Road Night Market Street]
Guiyang's famous entertainment street is home to nearly all the famous bars. The snacks are mostly barbecued: live fish, chicken, lamb chops, seashells, snails... The street is lined with eye-catching signs, and the alluring aromas wafting through the air are sure to whet your appetite.
[Qingyun Road]
The night market is a must-visit place for late-night snacks in Guiyang. In addition, there are also snacks in the city center at night. You can choose your favorite place and sit there to eat slowly.
Those who arrive early can choose to sign up for the China-TravelNote [Explore Guiyang City Walk]
Guizhou's road conditions have been improving over the past few years. The average drive to each scenic spot used to take 10 hours, but now it only takes 4-5 hours.
The entire journey from Guiyang to Libo takes about 4 hours. Direct buses to Xiaoqikong, Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, and Huangguoshu Waterfall can be found at the "Guizhou Station-to-Scenic Spot Direct Bus Stop" located in the north gate parking lot of the Provincial Gymnasium near Guiyang Railway Station. Since these direct buses depart from the city center, the next day's travel is very convenient. They go directly to the scenic spot's visitor service center, and the entire journey is on the highway, eliminating any transfers or delays. The journey takes 3.5 to 4 hours.
Please call 0851-85822255 before your visit to reserve your tickets and confirm your itinerary. The bus to Xiaoqikong departs at 7:00 AM and returns to Guiyang at 5:00 PM. The bus to Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village departs at 7:30 AM and returns at 5:00 PM. The bus to Huangguoshu National Park departs at 8:00 AM and also returns at 5:00 PM. The total time allowed for the scenic area is between 6 and 7 hours, which is plenty of time for a full day of fun. If you can't find the bus stop, search for "Station-to-Scenic Area Direct Bus Stop" on the navigation map.
[Hidden Treasure Box - Sauerkraut Meat Pie in the Service Area]
We had a recommended eight-star service area meat pie to satisfy our hunger. It was so delicious that it made us forget the long journey and even had a little surprise! The aroma of the fluffy pie, mixed with the flavor of the meat and salted vegetables, made us regret not buying twenty of them!
Arrive at Jiaou Village near the Xiaoqikong Scenic Area around noon. If you're hungry and don't want to rush into the scenic area, try the Zhangjiang Tofu Fish here! It's about a 10-15 minute drive from the scenic area's west gate. The renowned South Zhangjiang Tofu Fish and North Wujiang Tofu Fish are incredibly delicious and will leave you wanting more.
After lunch, we officially set off for Xiaoqikong! You might be unaware that a beautiful sapphire dream is slowly approaching...
Tips:
Starting January 5, 2018, a single ticket for the Small Seven-hole Caverns will be available. Tickets are priced at 130 yuan per person during peak season and 110 yuan per person during off-season, valid for two days. This two-day ticket allows you to visit the Small and Large Seven-hole Caverns within two days, rather than rushing through them all in one day. Because the Small and Large Seven-hole Caverns each take about six or seven hours to complete, this two-day ticket is particularly user-friendly. One ticket allows you to visit the Small and Large Seven-hole Caverns over two days, with unlimited entry and exit. The Large Seven-hole Caverns, without the boat, takes about two to three hours. A visit to the Small Seven-hole Caverns takes six or seven hours, especially to the Small Seven-hole Caverns and Wolongtan, which I personally find most beautiful. For further information, please contact the Libo Tourism Bureau at 0854-3619810.
Pay attention, a large wave of eye-catching oxygen-rich landscapes is on the way, and I can’t sit still anymore. The chess stakes outside the scenic area are very eye-catching!
Located among peaks over 30 kilometers south of Libo County, Xiaoqikong (Little Seven-hole Cave) boasts a vibrant blend of mountains, water, forests, caves, lakes, and waterfalls, brimming with Tujia and Yao ethnic customs. Designated a national nature reserve in 1988, its main attractions include Wolongtan, Yuanyang Lake, Cuigu Waterfall, the Water Forest, Laya Waterfall, a 68-tiered waterfall, and the Xiaoqikong Bridge. Xiaoqikong has two entrances, east and west. We entered through the west gate and exited the east gate, heading back out. We didn't visit the Big Seven-hole Caves, as it's said that after visiting the Small Seven-hole Caves, the Big Seven-hole Caves becomes less interesting. I highly recommend the Big Seven-hole Caves for outdoor enthusiasts to explore on their own.
Entering the scenic area from the west gate, the first stop is to walk through Wolongtan. This place really gives people a very quiet and mysterious feeling. [Hidden Treasure Box: See the Sapphire Blue in Winter] Wolongtan in winter is a sapphire blue that you can't see in spring, summer or autumn. In summer, it will be green and glowing, and in autumn, it will begin to turn yellow.
I always feel that a small boat might suddenly appear from the lake between the woods. Those legendary paradises and hermits would probably choose to live in such places.
After exiting Wolongtan, you'll encounter the first waterfall of Xiaoqikong, Wolongtan Waterfall. This is the beginning of your journey to appreciate the diverse waterfalls along the way. As you pass Xiaoqikong Waterfall, you'll fall in love with its ethereal, delicate beauty. While not as impressive as the waterfalls at Huangguoshu Waterfall or the Maling River Grand Canyon, each has its own unique beauty, ranging from delicate and translucent to splashing and free.
Some of them are hidden in the green valleys, forming waterfalls that seep out from the mountains, and some leap from the cliffs.
There is also a local dialect meaning "beautiful", which means beautiful! You can get close to the Raya Falls.
On the last section of the hike along the Xiangshui River, you can also see the hidden Shuanglong Waterfall and the 68-level waterfall.
Tips: Having mentioned the beauty of the trip, I'd like to remind you not to go rafting in Wolong Lake. Firstly, the rafting is very long, about 2-3 hours. After rafting, you won't want to go downhill anymore. Furthermore, you can't move around at all, so you have to row. You'll miss out on the best part of boating in Yuanyang Lake because of the rafting.
The mandarin duck trees, which can only be seen by boating on Yuanyang Lake, offer a glimpse into the sour aroma of love. With a bit of luck, you might even be able to see mandarin ducks playing in the lake through the dense forest.
After Yuanyang Lake, the next most exciting attraction is the Water Forest, which you have to walk through. It's only about 600-700 meters long, but with every breath you take, you feel like you've added a year to your life. While the water isn't allowed in winter, this summer adventure is a favorite for everyone, young and old. Walking through the forest in winter only heightens its refreshing elegance; simply savoring the refreshing breath.
【Hidden Recommended Summer Game】
Of course, when walking in the water forest in summer, everyone will remind you to bring your own slippers. The way to open it should be like this. Wading through the water is really a wonderful forest adventure.
In the summer, you can get close enough to Raya Falls to have a water fight with the waterfall.
After walking through the water forest, you will head to the 1.2-kilometer Xiangshui River hiking wooden plank trail. Along the way, you will encounter Shuanglong Waterfall and Laya Waterfall, and then come to the Xiaoqikong Bridge.
The Small Seven-Arch Bridge is not as grand as its reputation suggests. It just stays quietly among the green mountains and clear waters, letting time flow by. Some people say: Those who have the ability to take pictures of seven complete circles are masters.
【Hidden gameplay】
Take a creative photo with the cliff and waterfall. Every time I feel that everyone's imagination is endless. It is so interesting to look at the photos later.
Tips: Xiaoqikong Tour Route
Enter from the west gate - Wolongtan - Yuanyang Lake - Cuigu Waterfall - Water Forest - Xiangshui River Wooden Plank Road (68-level waterfall, Laya Waterfall, Xiaoqikong Ancient Bridge) - East Gate Tourist Service Center (get off at Daqikong Station and walk 5-10 minutes)
Follow the sightseeing bus route. If you can't find the direction, you can ask the staff at the boarding and alighting area to confirm the direction. The best views are from the beginning to the end. The recommended highlights are Yuanyang Lake and Water Forest, where you can spend more time. The whole journey takes 5-6 hours.
If you enter from the East Gate and want to exit from the East Gate, you can go back to Wolongtan and take a direct bus to the scenic area, and then take the bus directly from Wolongtan back to the East Gate.
It takes about 30 minutes to get to Libo County to check in at night. The most recommended dishes in Libo Food Street are: grilled tofu fish (you must order a portion of rice wrapper with the tofu fish to make it more flavorful), roast suckling pig and cured pork ribs (you can have a platter), and the sour plum juice here is worth a try.
Danzhai County, more of a town than a village, is a fascinating place, beautifully named "Hometown of Golden Pheasants," after the Miao ethnic group known as the Golden Pheasant Miao. Despite its small size, Danzhai boasts seven national and 16 provincial intangible cultural heritage sites, making it the most comprehensive in Guizhou.
Ancient papermaking, Miao batik, and the Golden Pheasant Dance were among the first to be inscribed on the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Guizhou boasts 46 of China's 56 ethnic minorities, 18 of which are indigenous, with the Miao being the largest. Southeast Guizhou offers a glimpse into many different Miao communities, including this most beautiful. Of course, a visit to Danzhai is a must, as it offers a glimpse into the region's renowned intangible cultural heritage.
Bird cages in Kala Village
Kala Village in Danzhai County is known as the "Hometown of Birdcage Weaving Art" in Guizhou Province. The villagers here make birdcages their livelihood, a craft with a history of over 400 years. It is the most distinctive ethnic village in the county and one of the wealthiest villages, with its entire population being the Miao ethnic group.
Even before approaching the village, you can spot a large birdcage perched atop a hill. The streetlights lining the road are all in the shape of birdcages, creating a strong sense of birdcage culture. Statistics show that of the village's 151 households, 125 are engaged in birdcage production, producing 100,000 cages annually. Birdcage production in Kala Village is a family-based process. An adult worker can only weave a dozen or so ordinary birdcages a day, and then special people come to buy them. With a bit of luck, you might even encounter the legendary "Birdcage Xishi."
After leaving Kala Village, we went to find food in Danzhai Wanda Town, which was invested by Wang Jianlin, who has a small goal of 100 million yuan. The fighting chicken here is the most sour and refreshing.
Photographer @Zou Jingfeng
In the afternoon, you can go to Shiqiao Village to experience the ancient papermaking craft. On the way, you will come across a viewing platform specially reserved on the side of the highway. The Gaoyao Terraces are there, quietly beautiful.
Shiqiao Village, located north of Danzhai County in Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, gets its name from a natural stone arch bridge connecting cliffs on both sides of a river. Most of the villagers are Miao. Remarkably, villagers from 16-year-olds to 80-year-olds are skilled in a single craft: papermaking using ancient techniques. This traditional craft is unique to Shiqiao Village, dating back to the mid-Tang Dynasty. The colored handmade paper, in particular, is unique in China. Some of the colored parchment is even exported to Australia, Southeast Asia, and other regions, where it is used for greeting cards, handbags, and storefront decorations.
The papermaking experience takes place in a large natural cave called "Chuandong," the oldest site of papermaking in the area. Within the cave lies an underground river, over 1,500 meters deep, boasting excellent water quality. Since ancient times, artisans have built paper mills at the cave's entrance. The 19th generation inheritor of this traditional papermaking method, who has been carrying on this tradition for thousands of years, believes that this is a tradition that stretches back thousands of years. Our guide, a member of the local intangible cultural heritage, led us through this experience, and it felt like we were part of a generation of ancient people.
After the wood pulp is poured and flowers and plants are spread on it, it is left to dry in the sun to form the shape of paper, and then the inheritors send it out to everyone one by one. The anticipation is the same as sending a postcard, but the difference is that it is made by your own hands.
Staying in Congjiang County that day, the best thing to do is to have a pot of beef in sour soup! The county is very good. The sour soup unique to Qiandongnan has the tenderness of fresh beef. The tofu is mixed with the sour soup and dipped in the hot chili paste. This is the most beautiful feeling on earth. Add a sip of millet wine and everything is perfect.
Having eaten rice noodles from all over Guizhou, every morning, it still feels fresh. Today, I'm heading to Basha, China's last remaining tribe of gunsmiths, where men hunt and women weave. The drive from Congjiang to Basha takes less than an hour. If you want to go directly to Basha, you can now take the high-speed rail directly to Congjiang, which is very convenient.
Tips:
Basha is 5 kilometers from Congjiang County, and you can rent a car in the county seat. Basha is only 7 kilometers from Congjiang County. The original Rongcong Highway passed through Basha, making it very convenient to reach. However, the newly built Rongcong Highway does not pass through Basha, so you must take a motorized tricycle or farm vehicle from the west side of the road north of the Congjiang Bridge to Basha. A chartered motorized tricycle to Basha costs 10 yuan, while a farm vehicle only costs 3 yuan. Long-distance sleeper buses from Guiyang New Gymnasium are available for around 70 yuan. Departing daily around 9:00 AM, there is one bus per day. Several direct long-distance buses also run to Congjiang daily from Kaili, Liping, Rongjiang, and Sanjiang, Rongshui, and Huanjiang counties in Guangxi.
From Guiyang to Congjiang, take a bus from Guiyang East Passenger Station. The journey takes 5.5 hours and costs around 95 yuan. From Kaili to Congjiang, take a bus from Kaili Bus Station. The journey takes 5 hours and costs around 75 yuan. From Rongjiang to Congjiang, there are numerous minibuses from Rongjiang Bus Station to Congjiang. The journey takes 2 hours and costs 16 yuan. From Liping to Congjiang, the journey takes about 3 hours and costs 35 yuan. From Congjiang to Basha, Basha is 7.5 kilometers from Congjiang County. After exiting the station, turn left and cross the bridge. Minibuses to Basha are waiting at the bridgehead. The fare is 5 yuan per person. You can also charter a car at the station entrance for a round-trip fee of 50 yuan. The driver will wait for you in the village after the show.
Basa is known as the "living fossil" and "ecological museum" of Miao culture. The costumes there are very different from the Miao costumes commonly seen in TV promotional photos, and are also very different from the Golden Pheasant Miao people I saw in Danzhai before!
Even though the commercialization here may make you feel a little uneasy due to the disturbance from countless tourists and outsiders, and you may encounter children who ask you for tips after taking photos, their eyes are still clear and it is impossible to dislike them.
After walking past the camphor tree memorial pavilion and visiting the Basha people's tree burial culture exhibition hall, I saw a kind of life-and-death interdependence between trees and the Basha people in the enlarged, somewhat worn and blurry photos, and the scenes of life and death. In Basha, after a person is born, his or her family will plant a tree for him or her. Until the day he or she grows old and dies, the tree planted when he or she was born will be cut down to serve as his or her coffin. After burial, another tree will be planted on the grave to indicate that the ancestor's life is with the tree, and life is eternal in nature.
Tips:
Reference playing time: 1-3 hours;
Ticket price: 80 yuan/person, private performance 800-1000 yuan/show;
Experience the villagers' gun-shooting performance by yourself for 20 yuan per time;
Opening hours: 8:00-18:00.
After a welcoming ceremony at the village gate at nine in the morning, we entered Basha to the sound of gunfire as the Basha men solemnly welcomed us. Basha men carry guns their entire lives, originally for hunting, but now fire their guns into the air primarily for welcoming distinguished guests and important celebrations. We were all honored guests of the Basha people.
Generally, there are 2-3 performances here every day, starting at 9:00 am, 11:00 am and 3:00 pm. Please remember to confirm the specific time before departure, as it may vary depending on the peak and off-season.
Continue down the path from the small square toward the Ancient Lusheng Field. You'll pass narrow stone paths nestled in the forest, tall rice drying racks between houses, straw swings tied to tree trunks, dye vats under the eaves, embroiderers embroidering garments, young men and women waiting for their performances, and the "sweeping monks" responsible for cleaning the venue. After the welcoming ceremony, follow this path to the innermost Ancient Lusheng Hall. This is where Basha's unique folk performances take place. Be sure to pay attention; the performances are interactive! The performances include a welcome at the village gate, offering sacrifices to the sacred tree, singing and dancing with the Lusheng instrument, and even haircuts and weddings.
The ethnic performances showcase the life and work of the Basha people, including hunting, weddings, ancestor worship, and playful activities. And of course, there's the wedding itself! You can even participate in a wedding ceremony. During this folk wedding ceremony, a male visitor is randomly invited to play the role of the groom, so you might have a wonderful encounter. Boys who want to try their luck at marrying a Basha bride need to show off their charm. Traveling through Southeast Guizhou these past few days, you'll discover the natural beauty of the Miao women.
The sickle-shaving performance is breathtaking. A long, curved, shiny sickle begins behind the ears and, in just a few minutes, shaves all the hair around the head, leaving only a small band on top. The Basha people call this "Budang Tilui," a "coming-of-age ceremony" for boys at fifteen. This shaving ceremony allows them to wear a "hugen" (a traditional Chinese scalp). The "hugen" (a traditional Chinese scalp) is a shaving of the hair around the head, leaving the top of the head in a bun. This is a symbol of wealth and authority. Some say this is how their ancestor Chi You migrated from the east thousands of years ago after his defeat. Because the forests were infested with wild beasts and floods were frequent, they had to climb trees to escape. The "hugen" (a traditional Chinese scalp) symbolizes the tree; as long as the tree is there, life is there.
As a foreigner, I can really feel the magical power of time on this ancient nation.
Before leaving Basha, you must try a bowl of "Oriental Hamburger" recommended by foodies. The hot yellow glutinous rice has the fragrance of flowers and plants, and the sizzling smell of hot barbecued meat and the taste of salted pickled cabbage are all over the place. This is the feeling of feeling that the trip is worthwhile just because of a bowl of rice.
After leaving Basha, a group of 31 people entered a "Dong House" (a traditional Dong house) where a young woman, a graduate student from a prestigious university, returned to her hometown to pass on this traditional craft and cherish her hometown's memories. Dong embroidery, a branch of the ethnic minority's outstanding cultural heritage, is known as the "intangible cultural heritage" of fingertips. This ancient craft, passed down through generations by Dong women, uses black homespun cloth as a base and is handcrafted to create exquisite patterns and vibrant colors. The hour spent embroidering was a truly relaxing experience.
After lunch, we headed to Zhaoxing, the main stage for the 2018 Spring Festival Gala in Guizhou. Zhaoxing saw a surge in tourists after the gala! Zhaoxing Dong Village was named one of China's "Six Most Beautiful Ancient Villages" by National Geographic China in 2005, and one of the "33 Most Alluring Destinations in the World" by Fashion Travel and National Geographic in 2007. Zhaoxing Dong Village is inhabited entirely by the Lu surname Dong people, divided into five major clans, each located in five natural areas, known locally as "tuan" (groups), divided into Rentuan, Yituan, Lituan, Zhituan, and Xintuan. Arriving in Zhaoxing, the night lights were already on. While we couldn't see the Spring Festival Gala venue, we could still experience Zhaoxing's stunning night scenery.
(Picture from the Internet)
(Picture from the Internet)
The Zhaoxing we see is so beautiful from the rising of dusk to the falling of night.
Strolling the stage
The basement of each drum tower is filled with Zhaoxing residents, gathered around a pile of charcoal, discussing family matters. During the New Year, they often discuss what performance to perform to celebrate the next day. On a stage near each drum tower, stories from various families are performed. Even if you can't understand them at all, it's still fascinating! This is the Dong ethnic group's grand song about weddings and funerals.
Throwing Youyou and Black Flower Face
During festivals and holidays, when you walk in Zhaoxing Dong Village at night, you will encounter the game of "Throwing You You" [diū yǒu yǒu], in which the locals will give you a You basket, and you can put an object in it, which can be silver, candy, or anything you want. Then close the You basket and throw it into the main room. The children in the room will collect your gift and put their gifts for the distinguished guests in it. Then you have to rush into the room and take out the You basket under the blessing of a bunch of young people. The gift can be taken away together with their blessings. In the past, this was the way young Dong men and women expressed their friendship. The young man would throw the You basket used for rice to the girl's house. After the girl filled it with black rice, the young man would lower his head and Going in to get it means "I wish you happiness", which means the more love there is, the darker the ash will be on the man's face. Nowadays, throwing Youyou has evolved into an entertainment activity that everyone can participate in. It is no longer limited to young men, so that in the end it has formed an atmosphere in which, during various major festivals, no matter who you know or don't know, as long as they walk by the river or in the streets, everyone will wipe the ash on each other to express their blessings. You can also buy a lot of candy specifically to throw Youyou, and their black rice is very delicious, and the ash is easy to wash off when you go back. You will also meet tourists shopping on the street with ash on their faces, happily showing off their blessings. It's so interesting!
I didn’t dare try the special pickled fish because I was afraid it would have too many bones.
I also recommend a restaurant here called [Jiang Jiang's Cuisine]. They have an exclusive new dish, flavored beef, secret spare ribs, and signature dishes such as stir-fried pork with green peppers, potato slices with fermented black beans, fried rice balls with salted vegetables, sour and sour vegetarian soup, minced meat and tofu... paired with sweet millet wine... I regretted that I was too full and didn't try the rice-fragrant fish recommended by my friends. It made me realize that I am the kind of person who can easily be captured by a delicious meal, and I fell in love with Zhaoxing (food).
For today's accommodation, I recommend a B&B called [Dong Shang]. There's another B&B across the street that's run by someone from Northeast China, whose name I forgot. It's also pretty good. I just really like the look of Dong Shang, hahaha. The interior is also very comfortable.
It's another beautiful day, welcoming the morning in Zhaoxing, passing through the Drum Tower, walking across the Flower Bridge, and heading to Tang'an Terraces.
Tips: If you live in Zhaoxing Dong Village, there is a bus ticket store to Tang'an opposite the Xinlou, which costs 20 yuan per person. There are no taxis or other public transportation in Zhaoxing.
In addition to the drum tower, stage, wind and rain bridge, gourd well, and terraced fields, passing through Tang'an also features a rice drying area, granary, water mill, stone pestle, oil press, fish pond, well pavilion, and Satang, all of which exude the spirit and flavor of life! Upon reaching the top of the mountain, we were greeted by a landscape shrouded in ink-colored water and thick mist.
Hiking in the Doan Rice Terraces
The Tang'an hike is approximately 7 kilometers and takes about 2-2.5 hours. Local residents advise you to follow the stream in front of the gate straight ahead to reach the destination. However, remember that walking alone is a risk, especially in Guizhou's complex terrain. So, following a guide (you can hire one in Zhaoxing before purchasing your bus ticket to Tang'an) will provide peace of mind as you journey through the Dong village, mountains, and terraced fields. Tang'an, with a history of over 700 years, is one of four ecological and cultural reserves funded by Norway in Guizhou. Walking along the stone paths between the terraces and mountains, leisurely admiring the scenery of the Tang'an terraces and the mountains on either side, is a truly relaxing hike.
Friends trudging through the fog, reaching out a hand from a steep cliff, suddenly fill the unfamiliar wilderness with warmth and warmth. The expansive view, emerging from the mist, lifts your spirits once again! You've seen countless promotional photos of terraced fields gleaming in the sun, but what we saw were their shy beauty shrouded in thick fog! The descent was filled with wild delights: shaggy bracken heads amidst the dense forest, the green of rice paddies with only bare stumps, winding stone paths, pink and purple water floats, and the legendary Land God Temple that made you feel like you'd stepped into a period drama.
Most of the existing old houses in Zhenyuan Ancient Town were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties and are very distinctive. It is backed by Shiping Mountain and divided into two halves by Wuyang River. The north bank is the old prefectural city and the south bank is the old citadel. From a distance, it looks like a big Tai Chi diagram, so it is also called Tai Chi Ancient Town. The Wuyang River in the evening is a good place to watch the night view.
(Picture from the Internet)
(Picture from the Internet)
(Picture from the Internet)
We didn't have time to see Zhenyuan clearly, so we got up early and strolled here again. After entering the city gate, turn right, cross the new bridge, and walk along the river. This is the Qinglong Cave of the ancient building complex (it is a religious building, you can buy a ticket to enter if you are interested, 60 yuan/person). Cross the Zhusheng Bridge and Sifangjing Lane to Shiping Mountain (30 yuan/person). There is a viewing trail. From here, go up the mountain directly to the top of the mountain where there is a section of Miao Great Wall.
Abandoning the main street, it is fun to walk through the streets and alleys, and feel the whispers of history in the crooked alleys. As the "key to Yunnan and Chu, and the gateway to eastern Guizhou", the ancient city of Zhenyuan, its 2,000-year-old story seems to be telling you through these old bricks and tiles with flying eaves.
The perfect combination of Jiangnan and mountains makes the residential buildings in Zhenyuan a wonder in the history of Chinese architecture. The most unique feature of the residential buildings in Zhenyuan is the "crooked doors and slanted roads". Old residents say that the "crooked" and "slanted" are in accordance with the Feng Shui master's words. Building houses in this way can not only "respect the south" to show wealth and honor, but also "conceal wealth."
The black wooden buildings inside are full of mystery, and they really seem to be telling the vicissitudes of the thousand-year-old ancient town. The ancient city walls are built with military system fortresses such as the Temple of the God of War, city walls, fire towers, forts, and artillery batteries. Zhenyuan Ancient Town is a place with "majestic mountains and beautiful waters".
A bowl of local spicy tofu pudding in the alleys is even more exciting! Be sure to seek out the [20-year-old tofu pudding] and a bowl of [rice crust noodles] – they are truly local alley delicacies that can’t be compared to those on the main street.
The joy of walking off the main street lies in discovering hidden gems that others haven't seen: small teahouses straddling fire pots, old houses with moss-covered walls, and large chickens leisurely strolling down the steps! These are all the essence of life in Zhenyuan. Zhenyuan's ancient dwellings, inspired by the Central Plains courtyard, have been repurposed into mountain houses. These villa-style courtyards, including stilt houses and corridors, recreate the charm of Jiangnan courtyards while embodying the mountainous architectural layout, combining the fortress-like fortress with the grandeur of wealthy merchants.
We climbed the mountain through the alleys and headed towards the "Great Wall of the Miao Frontier in the South" at the top of the ancient town. Finally, we climbed the Miao Great Wall from Shiping Mountain on Sifangjing Alley. Remember to bring your ID card and wait at the top of the mountain for the high-speed train to whizz past through the mountain. It felt like a movie scene.
I originally wanted to take a selfie on the wall, but when I got to the top, my legs were so weak. Hahahaha, so I quickly asked someone to take a picture, and then I gave up immediately with trembling legs.
Two hours later, we arrived at Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, a village of wooden stilt houses, from the bluestone-clad Zhenyuan. Grandmas sang folk songs, and young women toasted. Beautiful Miao girls, dressed in their finery, had already set out 12 rounds of gate-blocking wine at the village gate, welcoming the guests from afar. Those who want to try Miao rice wine can simply stand before them! How many of these twelve rounds of gate-blocking wine can you handle?
This is the largest Miao village in China and even in the world. It is lighting up its lights to welcome us.
My sister and I, who love photography, waited at the viewing platform until the lights on the Xijiang River suddenly appeared and thousands of lights were on. Every moment of this period was incredibly beautiful.
The Miao village in the evening gives people a sense of déjà vu from the animation "Spirited Away".
Eat a long table banquet and try the Miao people's high mountain and flowing water toasting method
At the end of today, there must be a golden picture, for the Miao long table banquet of the day. All the stranger friends on the first day sat at the same long table and talked and laughed like a family. The Miao girl's high mountain and flowing water toast method and the beautiful woman's sweet wine were fun.
The essence of this lyric: My cousin comes to drink, my cousin comes to toast, you have to drink whether you like it or not, you have to drink whether you like it or not, drink one glass if you like it or not. Whether you like it or not, you have to drink!
It was almost time to return, but I was nostalgic for the early mornings at Xijiang, so I woke up at six in the morning for another stroll along the beautiful Xijiang River in the morning light. The still-awakened Miao village was damp and deserted! Both banks were peaceful and quiet, with only the occasional smoke rising from cooking fires, revealing the scent of life. This is the Xijiang River, as Mr. Yu Qiuyu described it, "answering everything with beauty."
The exquisite stilt houses, adorned with silver ornaments, have a unique charm. Of the seven wind and rain bridges in Xijiang River, five have names, some for welcoming blessings, others for couples singing and expressing their love, creating a romantic atmosphere.
We took the sightseeing bus to the observation deck again, and saw the beautiful Miao women with flowers in their hair buns.
There are many Miao costumes for rent in the rural tourist areas of Wind and Rain Bridge No. 4 and Wind and Rain Bridge No. 1. If you want to try taking photos in Miao costumes, you can rent a set for 10 yuan/person or 20 yuan/person, including headdresses. Boys also have shawls. You can dress like a Miao king and have fun watching yourself dress like a Miao king on the Wind and Rain Bridge under the stilt house.
There's a place only we know, and a way to explore it that I'd love to share with you. The addition of Xiaohuang Dong Village to China-TravelNote's Southeast Guizhou itinerary feels even more pristine. I'm eager to share your discoveries and discover new ways to explore it!
