Compared to Lijiang, I am more enchanted by this ancient overseas Chinese town carried on horseback

People often say Lijiang is the cultural landmark of Yunnan, but it was only when I stepped into Yisa in early autumn that I realized the true legend of the horse caravan is hidden in this southern Yunnan mountain town. Unlike the commercial bustle of Lijiang Old Town and the crowded tourists in Shuhe, autumn here is the sound of horse hooves echoing on the bluestone streets, the Sino-Western architecture shrouded in the mist of the Red River Valley, and even time itself seems wrapped in the crisp jingling of horse caravan bells, slowly settling.

In the early morning in Yisa Ancient Town, the first thing that captivates you is the weathered horse-tethering stone hanging at the alley entrance. Unlike the deliberate charm of Lijiang’s popular spots, the sense of history here is the most touching backdrop—the old master points to the Roman columns of the Yao Chuji Mansion, telling the legend of horse caravan merchants who used French cement to build it. This is the Yisa residence known as the "Grand View Garden of Overseas Architecture." Taking a bite of freshly baked small yellow beef jerky, the outside is crispy and fragrant, the inside flavorful, dipped in a local chili sauce made from millet, the salty and spicy taste bursts on the tongue, and the air is filled with a rich meaty aroma.

After exploring the ancient town, head to the Red River to seek a piece of horse caravan memory. This river, more majestic than the Jinsha River in Lijiang, is still shrouded in morning mist. Standing on the mountaintop overlooking it, the Red River rushes like the journey of a horse caravan merchant team. The Sino-Western buildings appear faintly in the mist, as if the horse drivers from a hundred years ago are returning from Southeast Asia laden with wealth.

The best part is that Yisa’s charm is not only about the horse caravan but also about the fusion of history. Sitting on the terrace of Zhang Family Garden in the afternoon, watching the sunlight fall on the junction of French arched windows and Chinese carved patterns, this mansion built by wealthy horse caravan merchants hides the scent of Southeast Asian spices beneath its floor tiles and carves the folk totems of southern Yunnan into its woodwork. Every corner sparks a cultural collision.

Lijiang’s liveliness is the songs and dances of Sifang Street, while Yisa’s charm lies in the stories hidden in the horse caravan hoofprints. Here, you don’t have to squeeze in to listen to internet celebrity guides or rush to shoot check-in videos. Just follow the horse hoofprints on the bluestone road slowly, and you will encounter the most passionate history of the southern Yunnan horse caravan and the most vivid years of the overseas Chinese town.

Post by LunarJester5624 | Oct 19, 2025