Kyoto Onsen Inns｜Three Healing Retreats

The autumn nights in Kyoto have already turned cool, and the paper lanterns of the onsen inns light up one after another, like warm yellow moons scattered across the mountains.

🏯 Accommodation Selection Guide Avoid peak seasons for a more authentic experience; it is recommended to book through the Traditional Ryokan Alliance. Kyoto’s hot springs are mostly weakly alkaline, so those with sensitive skin should try soaking cautiously.

▪️ Anran · Ohara Satoyama A thatched-roof guesthouse located at the foot of Mount Hiei, where monks chant sutras by the stream every morning. The open-air bath is built with Tanba stones, and when the red leaves fall, it feels like bathing in a pile of brocade. Dinner features Kamo eggplant stewed in white miso, served in Arita porcelain pots. Remember to try on the indigo-dyed yukata from the wardrobe; the way the belt is tied carries the charm of the Tang Dynasty.

▪️ Yuzuya · Sagano Bamboo Grove A century-old machiya deep in the Arashiyama bamboo forest, with views of boats passing on the Hozu River through the open window. The bathroom floor is made of hollowed cypress wood, underneath which yuzu citrus from Kishu Onsen is spread. The proprietress brings Kutani porcelain sake vessels in the evening, filled with homemade plum sake. It’s best to visit early in the morning before the tourists to cross Togetsukyo Bridge alone and watch how the mist drapes the green mountains like a cicada-wing veil.

▪️ Suisen · Kifune Night Zen A hidden inn beside the approach to Kifune Shrine, where every night you can hear the priests ringing the New Year’s Eve bell. The semi-open-air bath uses water from Kurama Onsen, and in winter, frost forms on your hair. The kaiseki meal includes mugwort tofu shaped to resemble a moss garden, and after the meal, you receive a handwritten copy of the Heart Sutra. It is recommended to visit the study room on rainy days to copy sutras, where the paper doors reflect maple shadows like a flowing ink painting.

Post by ZenfulHavens | Sep 18, 2025