Misty Rain Over the Ancient Capital

Luoyang, located on the north bank of the Luo River, is backed by the Qinling Mountains to the west, flanked by Mount Song to the east, and bordered by the Taihang Mountains to the north. Situated at the heart of the country, it is surrounded by mountains and rivers, boasting the most magnificent landscape in the world. Its cultural heritage and military legacy shine brightly in history, making it the land of emperors and the foundation of the Central Plains. I came here drawn by the breeze, originally intending to admire its elegance in the golden autumn. However, the heavens were unkind, with continuous rain lasting ten days, causing the waters of the Yi and Luo Rivers to rise. Though my luggage was prepared, my enthusiasm for travel was dampened.

First, I paid homage to Guanlin Temple, where the grand halls stood tall in the rain, surrounded by lush pines and cypresses. The rain infused the incense smoke, and moss stained the stone tablets. In the afternoon, I hurried to Longmen Grottoes, where the twin peaks of Yique face each other and the thousand grottoes are unevenly scattered. Unfortunately, the heavy rain made the steps slippery, preventing a full tour of the caves. I only saw the rushing Yi River, shrouded in mist, with Buddha statues appearing like countless living beings in various forms.

The next day, I visited the Grand Canal Museum and learned about Emperor Yang of Sui’s great achievement in opening the canal transport system—a deed that was a sin to his contemporaries but a merit for all ages. At the site of the Sui and Tang Luoyang city gates, the pools and terraces of the nine provinces have long vanished, leaving only the majestic Lijing Gate standing alone. Climbing up, I saw the mist and rain enveloping the tall buildings. The once prosperous divine capital has now turned into a sea of umbrellas among tourists.

Early the next morning, I visited the Ancient Tomb Museum and realized the ancient teaching that treating death as seriously as life. Although I did not fully explore all the famous sites of Luoyi, viewing the ancient relics in the rain offered a unique charm: the Longmen stone Buddhas bathed in rain seemed to weep with compassion, and the ancient tomb pottery figurines gazed as if telling tales of the past.

Moreover, in the streets and alleys, elderly people holding umbrellas calmly watched chess games, while children splashed and laughed as usual. This showed that the culture of thirteen dynasties, soaked by wind and rain, has blended into the everyday life of the city. Though the rain obscured the tall buildings, the roots of the Heluo civilization still live on in the smoke rising from ordinary alleys.

Post by SEAN RAMSEY | Oct 18, 2025