Pingyao After Dark: Lanterns, Neon & a Surprise Gold Fix

Never thought a quiet ancient town would be the highlight of my China trip — but Pingyao completely stole the show. It’s that rare mix of history, character and low-key cool, especially after dark when the streets glow with red lanterns and flashes of neon. It feels like stepping into a dream — part period drama, part arthouse film.

We stayed in one of Pingyao’s traditional courtyard hotels, a restored siheyuan (四合院) tucked behind wooden gates. Rooms opened out onto a peaceful central courtyard, and the beds were the old-style charcoal-heated stone platforms — warm, solid, and surprisingly cosy. It was like sleeping in a slice of history, without feeling like a museum.

One of my favourite discoveries was a tucked-away shop called Yong Long, selling these stunning handmade, gold-inlaid jewellery boxes. Not the usual tourist fare — these were the real deal. Got chatting with the owners and they kindly showed us the workshop where the bespoke ones are made. Real artistry. And yes — they ship internationally. Very tempting.

Also — northern Chinese food? Completely different vibe. Richer, heartier, and packed with flavour. Loads of handmade noodles, braised meats, pickles… proper comfort food that really hits the spot in the cooler northern evenings.

Pingyao isn’t just a historical town — it’s an experience. The kind that sneaks up on you and stays with you long after you’ve left. Go for the heritage, stay for the atmosphere.

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