Jiangnan in Chengdu

The history of Jiaguan Ancient Town dates back to the border pass of the ancient Shu Kingdom before the Qin conquest, originally named "Jiamenguan" for its location between the towering Zuozi Mountain and Hudayan Peak that resemble a gate, with the Baimo River flowing through.

As a vital stop on the Southern Silk Road and the Tea Horse Road, it once bustled with merchants and caravans. Remnants of the ancient post road still exist in the Gongdian Village section, where the echoes of mule bells seem to linger on the cobblestone paths.

The Southern Song poet Lu You, during his tenure as Tongpan of Qionglai, frequently passed through and recorded in his *Laoxue'an Notes*: "At Linqiong's Jiamen Town, water flows through." The folk rhyme "Endless Goods in Jiaguan" testifies to its former prosperity.

Jiaguan's rise was closely tied to the Tea Horse Road and the Southern Silk Road. A key node on the Sichuan-Tibet route, it was the throat of the "Five-Foot Path." Traces of Qin-Han era post roads remain, with clear hoof prints on the stones, as if caravan bells still echo in the valleys.

The Baimo River is both the town's geographic divide and lifeblood. It nourishes stilted houses from the Ming-Qing dynasties, built over water to avoid floods, creating a scene of "houses standing in water, people wandering in a painting." Three ancient bridges—Wanfu, Yongshou, and Qingyuan—arch like rainbows over the river. Qingyuan Bridge, built in the Qianlong era, still bears traffic after 240 years, its 12 red sandstone piers' weathered carvings witnessing the town's history.

The river splits the town into north and south banks. The south's new street and north's old street connect via ancient bridges, lined with stilted houses and winding cobblestone lanes. Laundresses beat clothes by Yongshou Bridge, elders fish under covered bridges, and bamboo rafts glide, with watchtowers and distant mountains reflected in the water.

"East of Jiaguan, where mountains and rivers shine, the land breeds talent," as Kangxi's *Huangji Zhi* noted. In misty rain, the town resembles Shen Congwen's *Border Town*, even the moss on bridges glowing softly.

The south bank's vast tea fields birthed Qionglai dark tea, the "Origin of Chinese Dark Tea" with 1,100 years of history. Visitors can stroll tea trails and join picking and processing. The "3/28 Temple Fair" in lunar March features stilt walks, dragon dances, and folk operas, showcasing the town's title as "Sichuan's Folk Art Hub."

Jiaguan's beauty lies not just in its tiled roofs and rainy alleys but in its timeless authenticity. Nestled in western Sichuan's landscapes, it blends the Tea Horse Road's weighty past with Jiangnan's delicate charm.

When dawn mist veils the river, sunset dyes tea fields red, and lively chatter drifts from old teahouses, every cobblestone and carved window whispers tales of time. The elders on river benches, children playing in tea fields, and tourists snapping bridge photos—all frame the town's living portrait.

Address: West of Maliushu Inn, Qionglai City

Post by rissolesowl | May 18, 2025