Dragons and phoenixes guard the roofs, and the image of a chariot leads the way: A journey through the totemic secrets of Changdeokgung Palace

#Changdeokgung Palace Totem Secrets

My first glance was captivated by the row of figures on the roof—black silhouettes marching across the sky like a silent procession of attendants, ushering me into the palace. Looking up, the ghost-faced tiles on the corners grinned, flanked by dragons and phoenixes gazing at each other from the ridges. This wasn't a threat, but a declaration: This place belongs to the king and queen. The painted intricacies beneath the eaves flowed like a tide, layer upon layer of cloud patterns and creeping grass, dotted with a few precious pearls, symbolizing both auspiciousness and protection.

Through the yellow patterned lattice windows, the light, softened by the Korean paper, became a warm golden color. Inside the main hall, behind the throne was the "Sun, Moon, and Five Peaks": the sun and moon stand apart, protected by mountains and rivers. Thus, the throne is not merely elevated, but upheld by the cosmic order. Returning to the square, a row of official rank stones lay on the ground, from "Jeongjiu" all the way to "Jeongil," the ritual system precisely carved into the cracks of the stones. On either side of the staircase, open-mouthed Xiezhi (xiezhi) swallowed and exhaled the wind—they distinguished right from wrong and protected the law. Beside the moon platform, silent copper water vats used water to control fire, safeguarding the wooden structure.

Circling the outer courtyard, the palace walls featured "Shou" (longevity) and "bat" (bat) tiles, side by side, conveying longevity and blessings to every corner. Finally, in the center of the gable, I spotted a small five-petal plum blossom. Its inconspicuousness seemed to epitomize the entire palace's theme: never withering in the cold of winter, the five blessings always present. That day, I didn't chase the grand spectacle, but instead let these small totems serve as my guide—Changdeokgung Palace's beauty lies not only in the scale of its buildings, but also in the details of order, auspiciousness, and wisdom in daily life.

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Post by 有伴同旅其樂無窮 | Oct 6, 2025