A Leisurely Tour of Shaoxing: Finding a Water Town Ancient City to Savor Slowly Amid the Aroma of Yellow Wine and Black-Winged Boats

Hey, friend! It’s time to take a stroll in Shaoxing!

If you think all Jiangnan water towns are the same, you really need to come to Shaoxing and see for yourself. Here, there’s none of the overwhelming delicacy of Suzhou or Hangzhou; instead, it’s like a jar of aged old wine—plain at first sniff, but with a strong aftertaste when savored slowly. The whole city exudes a wonderful atmosphere blending scholarly charm with everyday life.

Day 1: Touring Shaoxing with Your Textbook, Becoming a Cultural Enthusiast

· Morning: Lu Xun’s Hometown—From Baicao Garden to Sanwei Study
The first stop has to be here! Don’t worry, this isn’t a boring textbook review. Walking along Lu Xun Middle Road, you’ll feel it. Lu Xun’s ancestral home, former residence, and Sanwei Study are all close by, and one free ticket (remember to book in advance on the official WeChat account) covers them all.
What excited me most was finding Baicao Garden. Yes, the very “green vegetable beds, smooth stone well railings, and tall soapberry trees” Baicao Garden. It really is just a... vegetable garden! But standing there, imagining young Lu Xun catching crickets and pulling out he shou wu (a medicinal herb) in his childhood, that sense of time-travel connection is truly special.
As for Sanwei Study, it’s smaller than expected, but the “early” character desk is still there. Looking at it, you can almost hear the clear sound of reading aloud.
· Noon: Treasure Hunt or Xianheng Hotel—Taste the Flavor of Shaoxing
Lunch must be authentic. Both places are famous.
Xianheng Hotel is more well-known, with a statue of Kong Yiji at the door as a living signboard. You must order a plate of fennel beans paired with a bowl of Taidiao wine (a type of yellow wine, served warm, sweet, and very smooth). Also order stinky tofu and braised pork with preserved vegetables (locals call it “dry vegetable pi rou”)—pure satisfaction!
Treasure Hunt is also popular with locals and offers more innovative dishes like yellow wine pudding and Shaoxing crispy fish, both excellent. Neither place will disappoint; just choose based on the queue.
· Afternoon: Shen Garden—Feel the Tragic Love of the Southern Song Dynasty
It’s only about a ten-minute walk from Lu Xun’s hometown. Shen Garden is a Song Dynasty garden, but it’s famous for the poem “Chaitou Feng” by Lu You and Tang Wan. The garden isn’t large, but the pavilions, corridors, small bridges, and flowing water are exquisite. Be sure to see the broken walls engraved with the two “Chaitou Feng” poems. Reading “Red soft hands, yellow Teng wine…” instantly transports you to that era of unfulfilled love. If you come at night, there’s a “Night at Shen Garden” performance using Yue opera to tell the story, which is even more moving.
· Evening: Cangqiao Straight Street—Dive into the Liveliness of the Old Street
This is a living old street, not just for tourists. The bluestone pavement is wet, flanked by homes and small shops. You can take a ride on a black-winged boat, listen to the oars slicing through the water, and watch life on both banks. Or do nothing but stroll slowly along the river, buy a piece of cream xiaopan (a Shaoxing specialty dessert), or enjoy a yellow wine popsicle (don’t worry, no alcohol, but with a unique yellow wine aroma)—pure bliss.

Day 2: Deep Exploration, Discover a Different Shaoxing

· Morning: Calligraphy Sage’s Hometown & Eight-Character Bridge
If Lu Xun’s hometown is the “star,” then the Calligraphy Sage’s hometown is the “veteran artist.” This is where Wang Xizhi, the “Sage of Calligraphy,” once lived. Jiezhu Lecture Temple, Tishan Bridge, Duopo Alley—each place name has a story behind it. The local life vibe is stronger here; you can see grandpas sunbathing by the river and aunties washing vegetables at their doorsteps.
Then visit the Eight-Character Bridge, built at the confluence of three rivers, shaped like the number “8.” It’s an ancient Song Dynasty bridge. Standing on it and looking down, you can see Shaoxing’s most original water town layout, almost untouched by commercialization—perfect for photos.
· Afternoon: Anchang Ancient Town—Slow Down to the Slowest Pace
If you have time, I strongly recommend spending half a day in Anchang Ancient Town in Shaoxing’s Keqiao District. It’s more authentic than the city’s main attractions. One river, one long street, with all kinds of sausages, marinated duck, and dried fish on both sides. The air is filled with the aroma of sauces. You can take a longer black-winged boat ride, gently rocking along, watching the local magistrate’s office and stone carving museum on the banks, truly experiencing what “Shaoxing style” means.

Accommodation and Pre-Trip Tips:

· Where to stay? It’s recommended to stay near Lu Xun’s hometown or the city square for convenience. Many unique guesthouses are hidden in old Tai Men alleys, offering an amazing experience.
· How to get there? Shaoxing has a high-speed rail station (Shaoxing North Station), a bit far from downtown but with convenient buses and taxis. You can also take the metro from Hangzhou—super convenient.
· What to wear? Definitely wear comfortable shoes! The best sights in Shaoxing are in the streets best explored on foot. Bring an umbrella during the rainy season.
· Must-experience: Ride a black-winged boat, taste yellow wine, eat fennel beans, and listen to Yue opera. Doing these means your trip won’t be in vain.

In short, Shaoxing is a city that requires you to slow down and savor with your heart. Don’t rush to see all the sights; spend more time daydreaming by the river and chatting with the elderly on the street. You’ll find its charm is hidden in these unintentional details.

Wishing you a happy time in Shaoxing, and as Lu You wrote in his poem, “Listening to spring rain in the small building overnight, selling apricot blossoms in the deep alley at dawn,” may you gain a unique Jiangnan memory!

Post by emmeline_athena_wilde | Nov 5, 2025

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