Marienplatz: The Heart of Munich
by Aaron Loo
Sep 20, 2024
Marienplatz is undoubtedly the most frequented spot in Munich. If the soul of Marienplatz is the Marian Column, then its "heartbeat" is the Glockenspiel on the tower of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall).
This neo-Gothic building, completed in 1908, is adorned with over 400 statues. The most striking features are its 85-meter-high clock tower and the intricate mechanical figures of the Glockenspiel.
**Glockenspiel Showtimes**
- Daily: 11:00 AM, 12:00 PM
- Summer (March–October): Additional show at 5:00 PM
- Winter (November–February): Only 11:00 AM and 12:00 PM
The entire Glockenspiel performance lasts about 12 minutes and is divided into two acts, reenacting two historical scenes from 16th-century Munich:
**Act 1: The Wedding of Duke Wilhelm V (1568)**
This act depicts the grand wedding celebration of Duke Wilhelm V of Bavaria and Renata of Lorraine. The bride and groom, dressed in traditional costumes, rotate atop the tower, while knights below engage in a jousting tournament, symbolizing festivity and honor.
**Act 2: The Schäfflertanz (Coopers' Dance)**
Legend has it that during the Black Plague in 1517, coopers dressed in red took to the streets to dance, encouraging people to leave their homes and resume normal life. This dance has since become a symbol of Munich's resilience and hope, performed every seven years to commemorate the city's revival.
As the clock chimes, the sound of bells and music resonates across the square. Though the wait for the show can feel long—leaving many with tired arms from holding up their cameras—cheers and applause always follow the performance with great enthusiasm! 😆
**The Legend of the Fischbrunnen (Fish Fountain)**
During the "Night Watchman Tour," we also discussed the story of the Fischbrunnen.
Located not far from the New Town Hall, the charming Fischbrunnen is a "fountain of luck" for Munich residents. Dating back to the Middle Ages, this spot was originally where fishmongers washed their goods after early morning trades. The fountain was later redesigned, and in 1954, sculptor Josef Henselmann rebuilt it into its current form: three bronze fish encircling a central stone column, with gentle streams of water symbolizing sustainability and purity.
**A Unique Tradition: Apprentices and the Fountain**
Every three years, butcher apprentices (Metzgerlehrlinge) who have completed their training gather at the Fischbrunnen. The top five apprentices, based on their performance, are allowed to jump into the fountain, fully immersing themselves in the water. This act, once a symbolic cleansing of youthful sins, now represents washing away the hardships of apprenticeship and starting anew.
**The Wallet-Washing Ritual (Geldbeutel auswaschen)**
This tradition takes place annually on Ash Wednesday, the day after Carnival ends. On this day, many Munich residents, including the mayor, gather around the Fischbrunnen to symbolically wash their wallets in the fountain's water. Much like cleaning one's home for a fresh start, washing wallets is believed to bring financial prosperity in the coming year. 💰
**The Origins of Wallet Washing**
In the past, fishmongers who worked around the fountain would handle fish all day, leaving their hands—and subsequently their money—smelling of fish. To combat this, they regularly washed their wallets in the fountain, often saying, "Even money deserves to feel fresh!"
Over time, locals noticed that fishmongers who washed their wallets at night seemed to have better business the next day. This led to the belief that the fountain had magical properties for attracting wealth, and the tradition of "washing wallets for good fortune" has been passed down for centuries.
**Other Fountain Traditions**
Legend has it that washing your hands in the Fischbrunnen's water on New Year's Day brings good luck for the entire year. Another tradition involves Rathaus employees symbolically dipping the town hall's money bags into the fountain after Carnival, "washing away" the fatigue and misfortunes of the past year.
Many visitors take photos by the fountain or touch the fish's head, believing it will bring happiness and safety to their journey.
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