[Zentsuji] (Zentsuji City, Kagawa Prefecture, former province name: Sanuki)

Kukai (774–835), also known as Kobo Daishi, is an essential figure in the history of Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture) and Japan itself. Born to the Saeki clan, a powerful clan in Tado County, the clan served the Sanuki provincial government for generations, protecting their fief. The Saeki clan and its related clans also produced many talented scholars. Kukai's maternal uncle, Ato no Otari (?-?), was from a minor clan, but rose to the rank of Junior Fifth Rank through his academic talent. Kukai himself was tutored by Otari in the capital. Kukai's father, Saeki no Yoshimichi (commonly known as Denko?-?), is said to have lamented that his son, who had traveled all the way to the capital to study, suddenly aspired to become a monk. However, the Saeki clan continued to produce many learned monks, suggesting that it was an environment in which they could absorb the advanced culture of the time.

Kukai spent three years in Tang China from 803, during which the Tang monk Huiguo (746-806), a prominent Chinese monk, recognized his talent, initiated him into esoteric Buddhism, and recognized him as his legitimate Dharma disciple. In addition to these qualifications, Kukai also brought back to Japan the finest Buddhist implements of the Tang China, as well as knowledge of the cultures and civilizations that had spread to Chang'an from all over the world. By this time, his father Zentsu seemed to have come to highly approve of Kukai's ambition, personally donating temple land and having a temple built under Kukai's leadership. This was the origin of present-day Zentsuji Temple, and Kukai modeled the temple after the Qinglong Temple in Chang'an, where his teacher Eka lived, and inscribed his father's name in the name to repay his father's kindness.
Later, with the strong patronage of Emperor Saga (786-842), Kukai founded the Shingon sect and built a succession of temples, including Kyoogokokuji Temple in Kyoto and Kongobuji Temple at Mount Koya in Kii Province (present-day Wakayama Prefecture), leaving an indelible mark on Japanese history. Alongside these, Zentsuji Temple, which was considered the head temple of the Shingon sect, also came to be devoutly worshipped as the sect flourished. Although the temple itself experienced repeated ups and downs, its unique location on the site of Kukai's birthplace meant that it became closely linked to reverence for Kukai himself. As a result, the base where Kukai trained in Shikoku before his journey to China became a sacred site, along with the devotion to Kukai himself, and later a pilgrimage route known as the "Shikoku 88 Temples" was established. Naturally, Zentsuji was included in this, and along with the nearby Kotohira Shrine, it came to attract many worshippers from all over the country.

Today's Zentsuji temple is divided into an Eastern and Western wing within its vast grounds, totaling approximately 45,000 square meters. When Kukai founded it, the Eastern wing was the main part, and is home to the core buildings of the temple, such as the Main Hall and five-story pagoda, as well as the ancestral mausoleum of the Saeki clan. While many of the current structures were rebuilt after the late 17th century, the temple still retains its status as the head temple of the Shingon sect, as symbolized by the five-story pagoda, the third tallest wooden tower in Japan. In stark contrast is the Saiin, a complex of buildings renovated in later years on the site of the Saeki clan's residence, formerly known as Tanjoin, an independent temple. Centered around the Goei-do Hall, dedicated to Kukai, the Saiin Hall is home to a treasure museum, a memorial to Kukai, a goma hall, and a prayer hall. Saiin thus has a strong character as a sacred ground for worship of Kukai, reflecting the human desire to share in his spiritual power. Statues of Kukai and his parents are enshrined within the Goei-do Hall, and approximately 100 meters underground, visitors can experience the "kaidan meguri" (ordination platform tour). This space is said to have been Kukai's mother's living room, and by following the cold walls through the darkness, where no one can see, you can connect with Dainichi Nyorai, the Buddha whom Kukai also revered. It is a rare space that seems to embody the alluring atmosphere of esoteric Buddhism, and if we liken it to a "womb," we may be able to discover a unique meaning that may even relate to the birth of Kukai himself. Kukai was a giant throughout Japan's long history, one who developed a uniquely Japanese faith and philosophy while opening himself up to the world, and is one of the few Japanese whose personal faith, such as that found at Zentsuji, remains open to the public even today. It is not difficult to recall his enormous footprint from the prosperity of Zentsuji today.

Recommended for Solo Travelers: ★★★ (There are a fair number of people, but it's a spacious area so it's not a problem.)

Visited: 3rd Saturday of January, around 3 PM

Access: Approximately 20-minute walk from Zentsuji Station

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Aug 2, 2025