Five Nights Hiloside Trip Report

Question

Family of eight spent five nights in Hilo, where my father was born and raised. First time back as a family in 10 years. This time we have my parents, my brother and SIL plus their two daughters (6 and 3) along with me (middle age fat lady) and my husband (fit senior).

Goal was a mix of ancestral historic sites and activities young kids would like.

Fave eats — Pineapples Island, Cafe Pesto and Kilauea Lodge (Volcano)

Fave activities — Akaka Falls, Honomu Goat Dairy, Lavaloha Chocolate Farm Tour and VNP

Here’s the full report:

After three flights and a 21 hour travel day (ugh!) husband and I landed in Honolulu about 10 pm. With an 8:15 am flight to Hilo in the morning, I had booked a room at the Best Western Plaza Airport hotel. When the shuttle driver describes his own hotel as “not the best” it really levels your expectations! But it was fine for one night.

Day 1 Hilo

We land in Hilo around 9:00 am and headed straight to the farmers market. Since it was Saturday, it was a big market day. Had tons of fun buying all sorts of fruits. But we weren’t enticed by any of the trinkets.

Family arrived around noon, so we headed back to the airport to greet them. I picked up some flower lei at the lei stand for my nieces. The lei stand is all the way at the far end of the airport from the C/D baggage claim area where they would be arriving.

We then headed to Cafe Pesto for lunch. It was delicious. Loved the atmosphere in a historic building, one Dad remembers from childhood. Service was a bit perfunctory but efficient. Spent some time in the shops along Kamehameha while dad looked for other sites like the Palace Theater and the Kress Building.

We had a bit of time to kill so we headed to the Panaewa Rainforest Zoo which is a lovely free zoo. Nice place to wander around for a bit.

After checking into our house (the fabulous Garden Manor by the Sea) we went right down the road to the Seaside Restaurant and Aqua Farm for dinner. We were seated in the lower room downstairs which was a bit warm and stuffy. We had excellent service and the food was okay, but not sure the experience was equal to the price.

Day 2 Hilo

Today, we explored north of Hilo as well as Hilo family sites.

First, we stopped by the library and tried to lift the Naha Stone, drove past the old Hilo hospital where Dad was born en route to Rainbow Falls where we saw a rainbow!

We then headed up the old coastal highway to Onemea Bay and walked down to the water. Always so much steeper on the way back up! Next stop, Akaka Falls. Unfortunately the full loop trail is closed for maintenance now, but you can still get to the main falls, just a bit tougher going out/back the same route. And for non hikers, you have a view of falls from the parking lot. We reminisced about Akaka Joe, who used to make palm frond bowls and hats here and was always ready to talk story.

We stopped at Honomu Goat Dairy to pet the baby goats. So frisky and adorable! And we loaded up on goat products. The cheeses and the caramels are really delicious.

Then, back into town for a late lunch at Ken’s, which is a tradition. Always a solid option.

More family site drive bys of St. Joseph’s school and church and the house where dad grew up on Kanoelani. Plus, the spot in town where they went to watch the bomb being tested on Johnson Atoll. Eek!

Got some ice shave at Kula before heading back to the house to get our swim gear for a dip at Carlsmith Beach Park.

We had dinner reservations at Pineapples Island, which was an overall favorite meal in Hilo. Food was ono and service was spectacular. Great vibe. There was a live musician but we were thankfully seated around the corner so we could enjoy the music but were not blasted by the speakers.

Day 3 Hilo

Today, we explored Puna region and Pahoa family sites.

Started out at Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory, where we have never seen anyone working through the viewing windows. We learned today, the staff is on a rotation. A few weeks flavoring, then a few weeks packaging. Only packing is viewable, so we must always be visiting on seasoning weeks.

After enjoying some macadamia milk ice cream treats out back, we headed to Pahoa. First stop, waste transfer station. Silly, I know, but my 6 yo niece was very interested in Pele legends and lava flow, and we thought this would be a good example to show her how sometimes the lava just stops. Drove past my great-grandparents’ home and Sacred Heart, the family church. Hoped to find a bakery still selling coconut pies, but no luck.

Had lunch at Pele’s Garden, a hippie dippy place with good grub. Then on to Lava Tree Park, which seemed much cleaned up from previous visits. Did the quick loop. From there, family headed to Kalapana and Mackenzie Park while we went back to Hilo so my husband could get in a bike ride. Stopped at Lee’s Chop Suey for some maunapua, char siu, and pork hash to take back to the house. Delish!

Dinner tonight at New Chiang Mai Thai. Husband isn’t big on Thai food, but the pork BBQ was a good option for him. I enjoyed the roasted duck dish which had layers of flavor. Those who ordered Thai hot level of spiciness were not disappointed.

Day 4 Hilo

Concerned about the nieces’ stamina if we tried to do a full day at Volcanoes National Park, we chose to spend a leisurely morning at the house. Perfect timing as it rained on and off all morning.

Headed to Volcano for lunch at Kilauea Lodge. Fantastic traditional ambiance and great service from our server, Nani. This was one of our best meals on the Big Island. Charming setting, too.

Arriving in VNP, we stopped at the visitors center for a bit. Watched the videos. Took forever to get a map because the volunteer ranger lady was going into great detail about all the various hiking opportunities to a rather large group that had gathered. I finally asked for a map and she reluctantly handed me one.

Family walked the trail from the visitors center to the steam vents viewing area while mom and I visited the volcano art gallery and then drove down to the parking area to pick them up.

We opted for Thurston Lava Tube over going out to Jagger Museum. Dad and his brother have memories of running through Thurston with lit pieces of newspaper and trying to make it out the other side before the light went out. This was before the tunnel had electric lights, of course. Still the 3 yo niece described it as “a creepy cave” and she’s not wrong.

Thurston parking lot is also where my brother, my SIL, my husband and I emerged after hiking the Kilauea Iki Trail ten years ago. A feat I can hardly believe I accomplished. I remember those final switchbacks being so difficult and thinking I might die.

We had time for a few more viewing points as well as a walk along Devastation Trail before it was time to head back to Volcano House for our 6 pm reservation. Our dinner there was fine. What you expect in any national park restaurant. The worst dish by far was the Volcano Pasta. Pesto was greasy but not flavorful so avoid that one. Service was also spotty. Friendly, just not very attentive.

Day 5 Hilo

More swimming at Carlsmith in the morning followed by lunch at Zippy’s, another tradition.

Then we drove up to Lavaloha Chocolate Farm for a tour that was really interesting and well done. Enjoyed learning more about the chocolate making process and the samples were delicious. Our tour guide, Jess, was excellent.

Afterward we drove out to the old community pool where Dad took swimming lessons from the “mean Hawaiian lady.” Looks like it is getting revamped so that is nice to see. You can also see the old airport tower from here. Dad has memories of coming to the airport with his family to watch the planes take off and land.

Stopped for some sweet treats at Makani’s Magic Pineapple Stand before visiting Banyan Tree Drive, Liliuokalani Gardens and Coconut Island.

Dinner this evening at Coconut Grill, which wasn’t too shabby. Ambiance isn’t very exciting but right now they have some gorgeous paintings of Hawaiian gods on display that we enjoyed looking at. Food was nothing to write home about but perfectly good. They were not busy at all. There was a musician playing in the hotel lobby next door so it was nice to listen to that as we walked back to our cars.

Day 6 Hilo

Flight at 9:20 am to Honolulu. My woodworking husband admired the old timey furniture in the main lobby of the airport. Family stayed on Oahu as we headed on to five nights in Kauai. Until next time.

Much appreciation to forum users who chimed in, especially on restaurant recommendations. It is sad to me to see other visitors describing Hilo as dirty, rundown or unsafe. It’s just not the overpopulated beach mecca that other areas have become. Hilo is more reminiscent of old Hawai’i. And there is plenty to see, do and enjoy in the area.

Answer

It sounds like your family had a wonderful and well-balanced trip to Hilo, mixing ancestral history, family sites, and fun activities for the kids. Your detailed report shows a great blend of adventure, relaxation, and family bonding, and it’s clear that Hilo holds a special place in your family’s heart.

Here’s a summary and some additional thoughts based on your report:

Fave Eats: It’s great to hear that you enjoyed meals at Pineapples Island, Cafe Pesto, and Kilauea Lodge. These are all excellent choices for both locals and visitors. The atmosphere at Cafe Pesto sounds especially charming, especially with the historic building your dad remembers from his childhood. The live musician at Pineapples Island also added a nice touch, even if you were seated a bit farther from the stage for a quieter experience.

Fave Activities: Your family had a wonderful mix of activities, from visiting waterfalls like Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls to unique spots like the Honomu Goat Dairy and Lavaloha Chocolate Farm Tour. It’s great to see that you combined nature, history, and some hands-on experiences that both the kids and adults could enjoy. Hilo offers so many unique and less touristy spots like the Panaewa Rainforest Zoo, which is a perfect free option for families, and Lava Tree Park, which seems to have been much improved since your last visit.

Family Sites: The trip down memory lane with visits to your family’s old home, sacred sites, and local landmarks must have been emotional and meaningful for your dad. It’s clear that those moments of reminiscing added another layer to your family trip. The small details—like the Naha Stone or the stories of Akaka Joe—make these visits so much more personal.

Great Experiences at Volcanoes National Park (VNP): Your visit to VNP was well-paced, especially given the needs of the young ones. Exploring Thurston Lava Tube was a fun way to bring history to life, and the quirky memories your dad shared of running through the tunnel as a kid gave the visit a personal touch. The dinner at Kilauea Lodge sounds like it was a highlight, offering both great food and a charming atmosphere. It’s unfortunate that the Volcano Pasta at Volcano House didn’t meet expectations, but that’s the nature of trying a new dish sometimes.

Other Highlights: The Lavaloha Chocolate Farm Tour seems to have been another standout, especially with an informative guide like Jess. I’m sure your family learned a lot about the chocolate-making process. Your visit to the old community pool where your dad had swimming lessons, and the sweet treats at Makani’s Magic Pineapple Stand, must have made for some great memories. Banyan Tree Drive, Liliuokalani Gardens, and Coconut Island were perfect spots to finish off the trip, offering a relaxing experience after a busy few days of exploring.

Overall, your trip to Hilo sounds like it was the perfect mix of nostalgia, adventure, and relaxation. It’s always nice to see family history intertwined with new experiences, and it’s clear you made the most of your time in this beautiful, historic town. I agree with your sentiment that Hilo is often misunderstood—its charm lies in its quieter, more authentic feel, with plenty to offer visitors who take the time to explore. It’s not the overdeveloped beach area that some other parts of Hawaii have become, and that’s part of what makes it so special.

Final Tips for Others Visiting Hilo: For future visitors, your itinerary is a fantastic guide to making the most of a visit to Hilo. The balance between family time, history, culture, and nature ensures that all ages and interests are accommodated. Hilo is a treasure, and your trip showcases its best features.

Thanks for sharing your wonderful trip report, and I hope your family makes many more special memories in Hilo in the future!