The White Heron of Kitakyushu: My Return to Kokura Castle

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Rising elegantly in the center of Kitakyushu, Kokura Castle is a symbol of the city's vibrant energy and rich history. While many Japanese castles are dark brown, Kokura's distinctive white plaster and black-tiled keep make it a striking sight. My return visit was a chance to rediscover its unique charm, from the modern museum inside to the lively gardens that surround it.

My Solo Itinerary (Encore Edition):

· Morning – The Keep & A Tale of Two Lords: I started by revisiting the main Tenshukaku (keep). This time, I paid closer attention to the museum exhibits detailing the lives of the castle's two most famous lords: the ambitious Hosokawa Tadaoki, a cultured samurai who served under Oda Nobunaga, and the strict disciplinarian Ogasawara Tadazane. The contrast in their rule is fascinating. I also took my time on the top floor, enjoying the 360-degree view of the modern city.
· Afternoon – Gardens, Matsuri & River Walks: I explored the Kokura Castle Japanese Garden, a serene landscape of ponds, bridges, and teahouses tucked away behind the castle. I then walked through the Matsumoto Seichō Memorial Museum (dedicated to the famous author, included in the castle ticket) and strolled along the nearby Murasaki River, a pleasant waterfront area.
· Evening – Illuminations & Gyoza Town: As dusk fell, I witnessed the castle beautifully illuminated, its white walls glowing against the night sky. I ended my day in the legendary Kokura Gyoza Stadium (within the Tanga Market area), sampling different styles of the city's famous dumplings—a perfect solo food adventure.

Why Kokura Castle is Even Better the Second Time:

· You Appreciate the Details: You notice the unique kara-zukuri style (the main keep is built on a stone base without a connecting corridor to smaller towers) and the thoughtful layout of the surrounding gardens and museums.
· You Connect the Dots: The castle's history feels more layered. You understand its role not just as a fortress, but as the heart of a bustling castle town that evolved into a modern industrial city.
· A Lively Atmosphere: The castle is integrated into the city's daily life. It's not an isolated monument, but a vibrant part of the community, especially with the nearby riverwalk and market.

Kokura Castle is a survivor—it withstood war and modernization to remain the proud, white centerpiece of a dynamic city. Returning lets you appreciate its role in both the past and present.

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